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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">That's an interesting idea, but all the
failed designs they illustrate don't show the way we usually do
it. We don't even bother with an inlet, as most battery boxes
have enough gap around the door to provide intake air, then the
exhaust comes off the top with several feet of rise to prevent
back drafting. If its in any space that H2s may be a problem
(living space), we always add a Zephyr Power vent which has a back
draft preventer. Even if the Zephyr fails, there will still be
passive air flow up the pipe past the fan.<br>
I see 4 problems with their setup:<br>
1) Large Copper pipe is really expensive, and steel is hard to
work with and fittings are expensive.<br>
2) Metal pipe is not only thermally conductive, its also
electrically conductive. I try to avoid unnecessary conductors in
the battery box.<br>
3) Metal pipe will corrode when exposed to H2S and battery acid.
That's why we always use plastic.<br>
4) Their suggested pipe size (1" outside pipe) are way too small
to provide venting for any more than a couple of golf cart
batteries.<br>
<br>
Basically, heat exchanger = good idea, but their version = not.<br>
<br>
As for the battery pass through connectors: they seem to be adding
unnecessary connections, and would also prevent using conduit.
I'd guess they're not UL listed, so that whole idea is also code
compliant. Duct seal will prevent the H2S from going up the
conduit into the DC load center.<br>
<br>
They're trying to seal the box too much; the only time you could
actually have an explosive build up of H2S is if you sealed every
gap on the battery box. I think its easier and safer to keep the
gaps, and if your venting fails, at least it won't blow up or over
heat.<br>
<pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760</pre>
On 10/28/2014 4:28 PM, Drake wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote cite="mid:20141028222840.3DAC410066@che.dreamhost.com"
type="cite">
Hello Wrenches,<br>
<br>
A client wants to use a passive battery venting method with a heat
exchanger to the outside for his bank of Full River AGM batteries.
Below
is a link to one site that recommends this method. Has anyone used
this
method? <br>
<br>
<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.bdbatteries.com/hydrogenventing.php">
http://www.bdbatteries.com/hydrogenventing.php</a> <br>
<br>
My main concern for about the batteries is that they not get cold
and
lose capacity during the short days when storage is most needed.<br>
<br>
He would also like to connect the terminals inside the box to a
pass
through jumper
<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.bdbatteries.com/lugs.php?id=269"
eudora="autourl">
http://www.bdbatteries.com/lugs.php?id=269</a> and then run the
cables,
without conduit, to the inverter. As far as I know, conduit is
always
required on the battery cables even if fuses are used in the
battery box.
Has anything changed?<br>
<br>
Thanks,<br>
<br>
Drake <br>
<br>
Drake Chamberlin<br>
<i>Athens Electric LLC<br>
OH License 44810<br>
CO License 3773<br>
NABCEP Certified Solar PV <br>
740-448-7328<br>
</i><a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://athens-electric.com/">http://athens-electric.com/</a>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
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