<div dir="ltr">
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12pt;font-family:"Times New Roman","serif"">Should you decide to lower your
plumbing vents I have found an inside pipe cutter to be an inexpensive and
handy tool. Cut the vent and lead off an inch above your desired pipe height
and use the inside cutter to cut the pvc pipe. Go slow and be careful to keep
air space between the pvc and lead as the lead will cut very easily. </span><span style="font-size:12pt"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12pt;font-family:"Times New Roman","serif""> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12pt;font-family:"Times New Roman","serif"">Also I wouldn't rely on us well
intentioned wrenches to make the call on the plumbing code in your
jurisdiction. Though the state plumbing codes are usually based on the
international code, there will be differences. If you can't pull up your state
plumbing code online then ask your plumbing inspector. In Florida the minimum
height above a roof surface is 6" (904.1). As for relocating 905.2 states
that “all vent and branch vent pipes shall be so graded and connected as to
drain back to the drainage pipe by gravity”. Table 710.1(1) shows that for 1.5”
pipe a slope of ¼” per foot is sufficient to handle 3 fixtures. I would take
that to indicate ¼” / foot is plenty for a 1.5” vent. </span><span style="font-size:12pt"></span></p>
</div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 11:20 AM, Dave Click <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:daveclick@fsec.ucf.edu" target="_blank">daveclick@fsec.ucf.edu</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
Flipping through the '04 plumbing code I see a few slopes called out
(1/4" per 1' for fixture vents, 1" per 1' for circuit vents, 1/2"
per 1' for combination drain/vent...). Fixture vents have a maximum
distance of a few feet from fixture trap to vent, but I don't think
this prevents you from then running that vent horizontally. 916.2
states that for vents other than stack vents or vent stacks if your
vent is >40' you need to upsize the whole vent pipe (tough to do
for an existing building, of course). Stack vents have a "maximum
developed length" of 100' for a 1.5" vent which should be enough
space to get away from under the PV. I don't see any slope
requirements specifically for stack vents but my non-plumber's eye
may be missing something.<br>
<br>
The stack vent sizing Table 916.1 appears (in part) here too and it
looks like the tables match up to a 2.5":<br>
<a href="http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/drainage-vents-d_1110.html" target="_blank">http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/drainage-vents-d_1110.html</a><br>
<br>
DKC<div><div class="h5"><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 2014/9/24 10:19, Jason Szumlanski
wrote:<br>
</div>
</div></div><blockquote type="cite"><div><div class="h5">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:verdana,sans-serif">
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:12.7272720336914px">I am unable to find
anything in the Florida code that precludes covering a
plumbing vent. The code does require the vent to be 6" above
the roof surface I believe.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:12.7272720336914px"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:12.7272720336914px">I was unable to
determine if these vents need to be vertical with no bends
in the attic. Obviously you wouldn't want to create a trap
in the attic, but a couple of 45's to relocate a plumbing
vent to accommodate more PV seems like a desirable thing to
do sometimes. Does anyone know if these can be relocated,
i.e. to an adjacent roof surface?</div>
<div style="font-size:12.7272720336914px"><br>
</div>
<div style="font-size:12.7272720336914px">On my own home I had
a vent to deal with. I broke out my saws-all, split the lead
like a banana and peeled it back, cut the pipe at an angle,
and folded the lead back into the pipe after applying
sealant between the lead and pipe. There is a 1" gap between
the rim of the pipe and the back of the module. My theory on
this working safely is that, a) there will be far less
rainwater falling in and around this pipe with a module over
it, and b) it is about 24" from the roof ridge and there is
a module over it so there will be very little water sheeting
down from above the vent. Code notwithstanding, I felt this
was a solid method on my own home, and I have inspected it
after 6 months of Florida downpours and found no issues.</div>
</div>
<br>
<br>
<div href="http://WISESTAMP_SIG_gmail_session">
<div style="font-size:13px;font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">
<div style="margin:0px 0px 8px">
<p style="margin:0px"><span><span>Jason Szumlanski</span></span></p>
<p style="margin:0px"><span><span></span></span></p>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:verdana,sans-serif;display:inline">Fafco
Solar</div>
<br>
</div>
<img height="1" width="1"></div>
</div>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 6:38 AM, Bill
Loesch <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:solar1online@charter.net" target="_blank">solar1online@charter.net</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
<div><br>
Bruce, August, et al,<br>
<br>
This is but one more example of confusing terminology.
A plumbing vent is not an exhaust vent!<br>
<br>
A plumbing vent (what August calls a cold vent) is
provided to allow the sanitary drain traps (and
perhaps more) to operate properly. Without the
properly functioning traps you would have sewer gas
smell and sewer gas from the plumbing fixtures. This
was commonplace when indoor plumbing was introduced to
early adopters.<br>
<br>
An exhaust vent is another animal entirely. An exhaust
vent carries the combustion products to a suitable
exterior location for dilution with ambient air. With
the advent of power vented combustion appliances, a
direct vent (one that takes in combustion air from the
outside and naturally exhausts combustion products to
the outside) is IMHO the only responsible way to
install any power vented appliance in a freezing
climate. (Power vented appliances come in both
condensing and non-condensing flavors-they can
penetrate the side wall or the roof). Originally, two
separate pipes (with two independent properly
separated penetrations) was used. That technique is
still often used today. More recently concentric vents
have been introduced both for condensing and
non-condensing applications. A concentric vent can
simplify some installations by putting the exhaust
pipe inside a larger air intake pipe allowing for one,
albeit larger, penetration. As you might imagine if
the exhaust flow is hindered/diverted/redirected by an
inappropriately located solar module combustion gasses
will be re-ingested into the intake air. Not good for
equipment performance. My understanding is the power
vented <u>appliance manufacturer</u> dictates what
kind of separation/clearances are needed with their
product. My guess is you find they want at least a
foot of separation between the top of the " inverted
cone" and the module. Probably not what you had in
mind for an aesthetically pleasing installation.<br>
<br>
I hope this helps,<br>
<pre cols="72">Bill Loesch
Solar 1 - Saint Louis Solar
<a href="tel:314%20631%201094" value="+13146311094" target="_blank">314 631 1094</a></pre>
<div>
<div> On 23-Sep-14 6:54 PM, August Goers
wrote:<br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<pre><div><div>Bruce and All,
Sorry, I hit send before I had a chance to complete my thoughts. What I
meant to say was that I've found AHJs often allow us to cover cold
plumbing vents but I've never tried or had any luck with covering hot
vents including condensing boiler PVC vents. Once again, if in doubt you
could see what the plan checker or inspector thinks.
Best,
August
-----Original Message-----
From: August Goers [<a href="mailto:august@luminalt.com" target="_blank">mailto:august@luminalt.com</a>]
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 4:15 PM
To: 'RE-wrenches'
Subject: RE: [RE-wrenches] Modules over vents
Bruce,
I'll send you the CA plumbing code vent section offlist (attachment too
large for this list). The way I read the code is that you technically
can't cover any type of plumbing or hot vent. However, and I've run into
little resistance from AHJs in the Bay Area by covering these. You might
want to check in with your plan checker.
Best,
August
Luminalt
-----Original Message-----
From: RE-wrenches [<a href="mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org" target="_blank">mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>] On
Behalf Of Bruce Leininger
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 3:49 PM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Modules over vents
Hi all. We're designing a system on a roof that is literally infested
with plumbing, exhaust and combustion vents. The combustion vents are PVC
and none of the vents are more than 1.5' above the roof.
A racking company says that we can cover them with modules, since the
modules will be at least 4' above the roof. They have not yet provided
any building code references to say that this is ok. Do any of you know
if the building code allows this?
Thanks.
Bruce</div></div></pre>
</blockquote>
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