<div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:verdana,sans-serif">What about an Ideal Push-In Model 39 dipped in liquid electrical tape? You can see through the case to ensure the wire is pushed all the way in, and it accepts stranded and solid wire. The cases are rated to 105C and they are UL 467. We use these for AC wiring sometimes, but mostly inside pool automation system enclosures.</div>
</div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Wed, Jun 25, 2014 at 2:38 PM, Brian Mehalic <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:brian@solarenergy.org" target="_blank">brian@solarenergy.org</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="auto"><div>I agree, the pre insulated splices are okay for if you need an extension in a box, that stays dry, and the wire isn't pushed up against something. Otherwise apply separate heat shrink after the splice. Just don't forget to slip it on the wire before splicing!</div>
<div><br></div><div>I kind of like the idea of a properly torqued set screw splice with insulated heatshrink. There's got to be a direct bury kit available. </div><span class="HOEnZb"><font color="#888888"><div><br>Brian</div>
</font></span><div><div class="h5"><div><br>On Jun 25, 2014, at 2:01 PM, Ray Walters <<a href="mailto:ray@solarray.com" target="_blank">ray@solarray.com</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div>
<div>I've had butt splices fail, due to a
ratchet release type crimper that didn't pinch the wires tight
enough. <br>
I now use a good old Klein crimper that puts a big indent on one
side. The problem with this however, is that it damages the built
in insulation. My favorite butt splice is uninsulated, and then
slide adhesive shrink wrap up tubing up over the connection
after. We use these on submersible pumps that are 100 ft under
water with no issues.<br>
<pre cols="72">R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
<a href="tel:303%20505-8760" value="+13035058760" target="_blank">303 505-8760</a></pre>
On 6/25/2014 11:43 AM, Nathan Charles wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">Hi All,
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Has anybody had success with these butt splices with the
adhesive shrink tubing? <a href="http://www.mcmaster.com/#butt-splices/=skb9qs" target="_blank">http://www.mcmaster.com/#butt-splices/=skb9qs</a></div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Best,</div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Wed, Jun 25, 2014 at 1:12 PM, August
Goers <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:august@luminalt.com" target="_blank">august@luminalt.com</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Hi All -<br>
<br>
We have been using outdoor Ideal brand wire nuts (the blue
ones packed<br>
with waterproof gel/grease) for all of our residential DC
side splices<br>
(typically #10 wire) for 10 years now and have never had a
single problem.<br>
If the installers properly strip the conductors and follow
the<br>
instructions I feel that these wire nuts make very robust
connections. We<br>
always do a good pull test after twisting the wire nut on. I
would never<br>
recommend standard wire nuts without the grease and have
seen these fail<br>
numerous times during inspections of systems installed by
others.<br>
Insulated terminal blocks also work well but don't have that
nice<br>
waterproof grease in them to help avoid moisture issues. You
can wrap them<br>
with a good splicing tape to help keep moisture out but the
cost for these<br>
connections is significantly higher than wire nuts:<br>
<br>
<a href="http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/EMDCI/Home/Products/Catalog/%7E?%0AN=5433135&rt=c3" target="_blank">http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/EMDCI/Home/Products/Catalog/~?<br>
N=5433135&rt=c3</a><br>
<br>
Normally I error on the robust conservative side of the
installation<br>
spectrum but in this case it sounds like I may not.<br>
<br>
Just my $0.02<br>
<br>
Best, August<br>
<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: RE-wrenches [mailto:<a href="mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org" target="_blank">re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>]
On<br>
Behalf Of William Miller<br>
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2014 8:40 AM<br>
To: RE-wrenches<br>
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] AFCI disturbances.<br>
<br>
Richard:<br>
<br>
Possibly. I think I prefer din mount connector blocks.
However, if a wire<br>
nut can arc internally a connector block might also. I am
still wondering<br>
about this concept.<br>
<br>
William<br>
<br>
Miller Solar<br>
<br>
> On Jun 25, 2014, at 6:09 AM, <a href="mailto:Richard.L.Ratico@valley.net" target="_blank">Richard.L.Ratico@valley.net</a>
(Richard L<br>
Ratico) wrote:<br>
><br>
> William,<br>
> Would UL listed crimp sleeves be an acceptable
substitute where you<br>
> would otherwise use wirenuts?<br>
><br>
> Dick Ratico<br>
> Solarwind Electric<br>
><br>
><br>
> --- You wrote:<br>
> Bob-O:<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> When you say verboten, what does that mean? Not
kosher? Frowned upon?<br>
> Disallowed by law???<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> I am quite curious about this subject. Here is what I
have learned so<br>
far:<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> This is a unique case where we are replacing 3 dead SMA
U series<br>
> inverters with 2 US series inverters. The U series
seem to all be<br>
> dying at about 12 to 14 years of age. We have about a
dozen of these<br>
> to swap on our calendar and expect more. It may be
that to do this<br>
> right requires that we pull new wire from the arrays.
This makes the<br>
job a lot more expensive.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> We have never used a wire nut on a PV lead until this
project. It's<br>
> not that we disapprove of wire nuts in general, it is
because we know<br>
> that if we were to use them regularly we would
eventually have failures<br>
and call backs.<br>
> We allow only one splice in a PV lead: between the
cable provided by<br>
> the manufacturer of the module and a bulkhead mounted
MC4 connector<br>
> direct to THWN in conduit<br>
> (<a href="http://millersolar.com/MillerSolar/practices/PV_wiring/PV_Cable_wirin" target="_blank">http://millersolar.com/MillerSolar/practices/PV_wiring/PV_Cable_wirin</a><br>
> g/_PV_<br>
> Cable_Wiring.html).<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> We checked the manufacturer's listing and the wire nuts
are rated for<br>
> 600 volts. We do use wire nuts on AC circuits, such as
switch and<br>
> receptacle circuits in a power room.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> A tech at SMA told me that wire nuts "arc internally to
the spring"<br>
> causing the AFCI faults. I am not aware of any process
of "internal<br>
> arcing." To me, arcing means, as per the dictionary
definition: "a<br>
> luminous bridge formed in a gap between two
electrodes." The same<br>
> tech told me to solder the leads and apply shrink
tubing. I don't<br>
> believe this is an approved method. By the way, we
have spliced leads<br>
> on both US series inverters and only one is exhibiting
AFCI<br>
disturbances.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> I do favor mounted terminal blocks, either screw or
tubular type. I<br>
> need to check if the Amp model we stock are 600 volt
rated.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> I was told by another representative from SMA that on a
ground-mount<br>
> system it is legal to disable the AFCI protection.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> I will be troubleshooting this job tomorrow and I will
let you all<br>
> know what I learn.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> William Miller<br>
> --- end of quote ---<br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
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<br clear="all">
<div><br>
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-- <br>
<div dir="ltr">Nathan Charles
<div>Engineer<br>
<div>NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional
#042013-20</div>
</div>
<div>Paradise Energy Solutions</div>
<div>
<a href="tel:%28717%29%20283-2021" value="+17172832021" target="_blank">(717) 283-2021</a> direct</div>
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