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--></style></head><body lang="EN-US" link="blue" vlink="purple"><div class="WordSection1"><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#44546a">Hi William,</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#44546a"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#44546a">You might try reaching out to Roy Dyngen of SMA – he is a good contact for these types of general questions. Email me off list if you would like his contact info.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#44546a"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#44546a">Is the SMA BATFUSE available in the US? Anyway, SMA has always recommended connecting the negative of the batteries to ground when I called their tech support line. As always, you would not fuse a grounded conductor so the negatives wouldn’t be fused. We’ve been using fuse blocks and fuses to fuse our DC lines per one of my recent posts. It is certainly not the cleanest way to provide over current protection but gets the job done and I think is perfectly adequate. I typically fuse each string of batteries with a 175 A fuse and use 2/0 wire. I think 3/0 is the largest that the terminal blocks in the Sunny Island can handle –buried in the manual section 6.2.2 you’ll find that. A 175 A fuse allows for 6720 Watts of power (175 A x 48 v / 1.25) on the DC side or 8400 Watts before the fuse will blow and it protects the 2/0. You will want to fuse each string of batteries before combining them and running to the Sunny Islands. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#44546a"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#44546a">I’ll check out the products you’ve listed below and consider using them for our next project as well.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#44546a"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#44546a">Best,</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#44546a"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#44546a">August</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#44546a"> </span></p><div><div style="border:none;border-top:solid #b5c4df 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in"><p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"">From:</span></b><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif""> <a href="mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org">re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org</a> [mailto:<a href="mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org">re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>] <b>On Behalf Of </b><a href="mailto:william@millersolar.com">william@millersolar.com</a><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Friday, February 07, 2014 5:29 PM<br><b>To:</b> 'RE-wrenches'<br><b>Subject:</b> [RE-wrenches] Sunny Island Battery Disconnects</span></p></div></div><p class="MsoNormal"> </p><p class="MsoNormal">Friends:</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p><p class="MsoNormal">I am reworking an installation with 3 Sunny Island inverters. The battery leads have no disconnecting means or OCP. I have been looking for sensible hardware to provide this and I have found some options. I am interested in any input on these or ideas I have not discovered.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p><p class="MsoListParagraph" style><span style>1.<span style="font:7.0pt "Times New Roman""> </span></span>SMA BATFUSE. I am having trouble deciding which one is right for a 3 SI install. </p>
<p class="MsoListParagraph" style="margin-left:1.0in"><span style>a.<span style="font:7.0pt "Times New Roman""> </span></span>The B.003 appears to have fuse positions for the positive and the negative leads. I am fairly darn certain I don’t want fuses in the negative leads of a negative bonded system, and although this is my first SI install, I am pretty sure this is negative bonded. Am I missing something here? </p>
<p class="MsoListParagraph" style="margin-left:1.0in"><span style>b.<span style="font:7.0pt "Times New Roman""> </span></span>The B.001 has only positions for two fuses as far as I can see from the manual.</p>
<p class="MsoListParagraph" style="margin-left:1.0in"><span style>c.<span style="font:7.0pt "Times New Roman""> </span></span>So it looks like neither will work for me. Does anyone have any experience and/or wisdom here?</p>
<p class="MsoListParagraph" style><span style>2.<span style="font:7.0pt "Times New Roman""> </span></span>Midnite Solar E-panels:</p><p class="MsoListParagraph" style="margin-left:1.0in"><span style>a.<span style="font:7.0pt "Times New Roman""> </span></span>The regular panel has DC and AC components. I want to control the AC elsewhere so I could order three slave units. The Midnite unit mounts right under the inverter but I would prefer to have the OCP closer to the batteries.</p>
<p class="MsoListParagraph" style><span style>3.<span style="font:7.0pt "Times New Roman""> </span></span>Outback:</p><p class="MsoListParagraph" style="margin-left:1.0in"><span style>a.<span style="font:7.0pt "Times New Roman""> </span></span>We could purchase an Outback FX1000 and install three breakers in it.</p>
<p class="MsoListParagraph" style><span style>4.<span style="font:7.0pt "Times New Roman""> </span></span>Breaker Size:</p><p class="MsoListParagraph" style="margin-left:1.0in"><span style>a.<span style="font:7.0pt "Times New Roman""> </span></span>I have started to read the manual but I have yet to find out what size breaker fuse is recommended. Have I just not found it yet?</p>
<p class="MsoListParagraph" style="margin-left:1.0in"><span style>b.<span style="font:7.0pt "Times New Roman""> </span></span>Also, I have not found a specification for battery cable size. Am I blind?</p><p class="MsoNormal">
</p><p class="MsoNormal">Thanks in advance. I really appreciate the help I receive here. I try to give as well as receive.</p><p class="MsoNormal"> </p><p class="MsoNormal">William</p><p class="MsoNormal"> </p><p class="MsoNormal">
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