<div dir="ltr">Hi Allan,<div><br></div><div>What about doing splicing in the j-box with float switch cable? Landing your homerun cable to one of the panel outputs, then splicing with a return homerun from your next panel? Each conductor would function as either a series connection or a homerun. Not ideal, but seems like it will work.</div>
<div><br></div><div>Good luck</div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Oct 10, 2013 at 9:19 AM, frenergy <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:frenergy@psln.com" target="_blank">frenergy@psln.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><u></u>
<div>
<div>Alan,</div>
<div> At 53 watts, we're not talking about
much in the way of amps....I don't even know but isn't there a 14 or even 16
gauge that would have the OD you're looking for and still carry the current,
easily, with short runs to a combining j-box. I just found some 14 gauge
at Nassua Electrical, .2" OD.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Just a thought.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Bill Battagin</div>
<div> </div>
<div><img style="WIDTH:267px;min-height:102px" height="84" alt="" hspace="0" src="cid:03288F282D5C4C17BA9073971714F6F1@D8XG8YH1" width="286" align="baseline" border="0"></div><div><div class="h5">
<div> </div>
<div>----- Original Message -----
<div>From: <<a href="mailto:penobscotsolar@midmaine.com" target="_blank">penobscotsolar@midmaine.com</a>></div>
<div>To: <<a href="mailto:Allan@positiveenergysolar.com" target="_blank">Allan@positiveenergysolar.com</a>>;
"RE-wrenches" <<a href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org" target="_blank">re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>></div>
<div>Sent: Thursday, October 10, 2013 3:52 AM</div>
<div>Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Oddball wire request</div></div>
<div><br></div>> Hi Allan,<br>> Is it possible to use 1/2"
carflex connectors and nm carflex from panel<br>> to panel? You could then
use THWN anywhere you wanted. This is what we<br>> used to do with all our
systems back in the day....<br>> <br>> Daryl<br>> <br>>
<br>>> <html><br>>>
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http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;<br>>>
charset=ISO-8859-1"><br>>>
</head><br>>> <body text="#000000"
bgcolor="#FFFFFF"><br>>>
Wrenches,<br><br>>> I do a fair amount of
work on ancient systems, just because
there's<br>>> been off grid here for decades. I'm
rewiring several old arrays for<br>>> my next door
(meaning < 1/4 mile away) neighbor. The
particular<br>>> array has six 53W Solec modules
wired as three two-module 24V pairs,<br>>> on a
Zomeworks tracker so old that it has aluminum rails
and<br>>> attached freon canisters instead of the
integral square tubes. Both<br>>> modules and
tracker continue to work well, but the wiring is
so<br>>> degraded from sun exposure that's it's
bare in spots, and this is<br>>> what I want to
fix.<br><br>>>
<br><br>>> Each module has a tiny j-box - 3"
x 3" x 7/8" deep. Each j-box has a<br>>> single
3/8" cord grip bushing (CGB). Each bushing has two
#10<br>>> conductors coming out of the single hole
in the CGB. The O.D. of<br>>> each wire is about
the same as that of THWN. The problem is that
the<br>>> single hole in the CGB is only large
enough to fit this diameter.<br>>> USE-2 is too
large, and modern PV wire is way too large.
<br><br>>>
<br><br>>> I bought a dozen replacement 3/8"
CGBs from Del City, but the<br>>> matching lock
rings are too large to fit inside the j-boxes. I'd
be<br>>> cautious about using a narrow Unibit to
drill an additional hole in<br>>> each j-box
anyway, given that the holes would be so close to
the<br>>> backsheet.
<br><br>>>
<br><br>>> The easiest solution would be to
find some sunlight-resistant,<br>>> wet-rated
single-conductor wire in #10 or #12 that has an
insulation<br>>> O.D. about the same as THHN/THWN.
Any ideas, please? Code is not an<br>>> issue in
this instance - I just want a solution that
works.<br><br>>>
<br><br>>> I thought about using float
switch cable, which is UV-resistant,<br>>>
wet-rated, direct-burial-rated type TC. We keep plenty in stock
for<br>>> signal circuits, and it fits and is
strong. The problem is that I<br>>> need single
conductors, because each module will have one
series<br>>> conductor and one output conductor,
and they run to different<br>>> locations.
<br><br>>>
<br><br>>> Are there any better ideas out
there?<br><br>>> Thanks,
Allan<br><br>>> <div
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class="Section1"><br>>>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b>Allan <span<br>>>
class="SpellE">Sindelar</span></b><br><br>>>
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<br></blockquote></div><br><br clear="all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div><br></div><div><font color="#305A78" face="'times new roman', serif"><br></font></div><div><br></div>Mac Lewis<br><br><span style="font-family:'Times New Roman';font-size:medium;color:rgb(255,153,0)"><b><font face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="3"><p align="left">
<font color="#000000" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><span style="font-size:small"><span style="font-family:arial;font-weight:normal;color:rgb(48,90,120)"><font face="'times new roman', serif">"Yo solo sé que no sé nada." </font><span style="font-weight:700;color:rgb(104,104,104)"><font face="'times new roman', serif">-Sócrates</font></span></span></span></font></p>
</font></b></span>
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