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Hi Benn, <br><br>
The vent is on a metal roof with a roof block instead of a flashing. Your
second option sounds the best. The main concern about using a cap is that
the abandoned vent might still be too high to put a module over. From the
roof surface to the bottom of the module will be about 5 to 5 1/2
inches.<br><br>
<img src="cid:7.1.0.9.0.20131004085947.0586fe08@redwoodalliance.org.0" width=53 height=111 alt="Emacs!">
<br><br>
Thanks,<br><br>
Drake <br><br>
<br>
At 06:03 PM 10/3/2013, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">Drake,<br>
If you are relocating the vent and abandoning the existing hole then
could you not just cut the vent flush to the roof or cut it right out and
slide a "flashing" up under the above shingles to cover the
hole, rather than plugging and filling the vent?<br><br>
Or...<br>
Given the pitch of the roof and the height of the array off the roof
surface, can you cut the vent as low as possible to cap it and seal the
cap (PVC cement if a PVC pipe). <br><br>
benn<br>
Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse
shortcuts and typos. <br><br>
On 2013-10-03, at 3:45 PM, Drake
<<a href="mailto:drake.chamberlin@redwoodalliance.org">
drake.chamberlin@redwoodalliance.org</a>> wrote:<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">Hi Max and Bill,<br><br>
Thanks for your input. The actual plumbing vent will be rerouted to go
out of the north pitch of the roof. There will only be a an open
pipe left in the attic. The main issue is finding ways of keeping water
out of the vent pipe (now abandoned) and getting it short enough to fit
under the array. I think a cap on the pipe would make it too high, so I'm
looking for other ways to seal it. <br><br>
Drake <br><br>
At 11:19 AM 10/3/2013, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">Content-Type:
multipart/alternative;<br>
<x-tab> </x-tab>
boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0020_01CEC022.1E610960"<br>
Content-Language: en-us<br><br>
So this is a plumbing vent instead of a furnace or hot water exhaust
vent? I’ve used Fernco rubber caps on unused vents, with the screw down
pipe clamps around the bottom. Also these are just to allow air into the
vent so draining water doesn’t create a vacuum so I suspect there is
little to be concerned about with cutting them off just above the roof
flashing and allowing enough room over the top to allow air to flow into
it. On a three inch vent that is only ¾” to equal the surface area of
the pipe. The top of the flashing is protected by the module over its
top. Over time would there be sewer gases which might cause trouble on
the back sheet of the module? I don’t know.<br>
<br>
Bill Dorsett<br>
Manhattan, KS<br>
<br>
<b>From:</b>
<a href="mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org">
re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org</a> [
<a href="mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org" eudora="autourl">
mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>] <b>On Behalf Of
</b>Drake<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Thursday, October 03, 2013 8:03 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> RE-wrenches<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [RE-wrenches] Sealing roof vent<br>
<br>
Hello Wrenches,<br><br>
We are moving a roof vent. My plumber suggested that we cut the old one
and cap it instead of having to repair the roof. I'm not sure a capped
vent would be short enough to fit under the array. <br><br>
What if we were to cut the vent off at the flashing level and plug the
pipe. A rubber plug could be put in and topped with hydraulic water-stop
cement. Neoprene roof sealant could be spread on top of that.<br><br>
Has anyone tried anything like that? Are there any other good options?
Can you see any issues with this method?<br><br>
Thanks,<br><br>
Drake <br><br>
Drake Chamberlin<br>
<i>Athens Electric LLC<br>
OH License 44810<br>
CO License 3773<br>
NABCEP Certified Solar PV <br>
740-448-7328<br>
</i><a href="http://athens-electric.com/">http://athens-electric.com/</a>
<br>
<br>
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