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<DIV>Thanks to all for the info and ideas for a direction on this. I
appreciate the help.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Bill</DIV>
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<DIV>-</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>---- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>From: "Bill Loesch" <<A
href="mailto:solar1online@charter.net">solar1online@charter.net</A>></DIV>
<DIV>To: "RE-wrenches" <<A
href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org">re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</A>></DIV>
<DIV>Sent: Monday, September 30, 2013 4:59 AM</DIV>
<DIV>Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] On demand WH</DIV></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>> <BR>> Hi Bill, et al,<BR>> <BR>> There are two
major categories of tankless water heaters-natural draft <BR>> (which work
very similar in control aspect to a conventional tank i.e.. <BR>> no electric
required, some form of pilot light) and power vented (all <BR>> power vented
machines have need for at least a fan, most a computer with <BR>> some form
of display included - if your own body is incapable of telling <BR>> you if
the water is sufficiently hot).<BR>> <BR>> Of the Big Five (major players
in the tankless market) all manufacture <BR>> one or more models of power
vented tankless. Today, only Bosch markets a <BR>> natural draft tankless.
Bosch offers more than one model of natural <BR>> draft tankless, standing
pilot and intermittent pilot. If you like <BR>> simple, trouble free, and low
life cycle cost, you have but one choice.<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <A
href="http://www.bosch-climate.us/files/201304181918370.520PN_English_06.2011.pdf">http://www.bosch-climate.us/files/201304181918370.520PN_English_06.2011.pdf</A><BR>>
<BR>> What must be properly addressed with _any_ tankless is intake and
<BR>> exhaust venting, gas line sizing, and water quality. Since this isn't a
<BR>> tank, the pilot flame does almost nothing in terms of freeze
prevention.<BR>> <BR>> Some manufacturers state flow rate for their
heaters without also <BR>> providing temp rise. Flow rate without temp rise
is meaningless. The <BR>> above is a 117,000 BTU/h machine. Sometimes winter
ground water <BR>> temperatures are significantly colder than summertime
temps. If you want <BR>> hot water in the winter, too, make sure you use the
appropriate temp <BR>> rise. Hardness is the biggest issue with water
quality, if you scale the <BR>> heat exchanger you won't get the performance
advertised. If you have <BR>> hard water, a water softener or descaling _as
required_ is necessary.<BR>> <BR>> I am a big fan of tankless and have
been since '89 when I was first <BR>> introduced to them as a user. Today, I
install and troubleshoot all five <BR>> major manufacturers. Co-located with
the load, tankless provides you not <BR>> only endless hot water but also
instant hot water.<BR>> <BR>> Good luck,<BR>> <BR>> Bill
Loesch<BR>> Solar 1 - Saint Louis Solar<BR>> 314 631 1094<BR>> <BR>>
<BR>> On Sat, Sep 28, 2013 at 10:19 PM, frenergy wrote:<BR>> <BR>>>
Off-grid
Wrenches,<BR>>><BR>>>
I'm working on a load sheet and am having a hard time finding <BR>>>
standby and while firing electrical usage for a propane-fired on <BR>>>
demand water heater. Do they some/all have standing pilots, glow
<BR>>> bars, something else? I'm guessing the standby power needs
are very <BR>>> low but we all know how even 10-15 watts adds up over 24
hrs when <BR>>> you're
off-grid.<BR>>><BR>>>
If any body has some actual numbers rather than just pdf.specs <BR>>>
(though manus specs might help some), I would be most grateful. <BR>>>
Thanks in advance.<BR>>><BR>>> Bill<BR>>> Feather River Solar
Electric<BR>>><BR>>>
------------------------------<BR>>><BR>>>
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