<html>
<head>
<meta content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1"
http-equiv="Content-Type">
</head>
<body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">I've got a project right now on a steel
roof. I was just at a trade show last week, so I got to look at
the latest gizmo from S5. <br>
I didn't like it at all, it didn't go into the valleys like the
old mount, but drilled 4 holes into the side of the ridge, and
just counted on the roofing to hold the modules.<br>
I wanted to use the new ZEP rack, but never heard back from them,
I guess my project is too small (4 Kw).<br>
I'm going with SnapNRack blocks through the ridge top, and I'm
going to go through the purlins into rafters or 2x blocking as
needed.<br>
<br>
Also, a related subject, I'm using the new HeadLok Lags from
FastenMaster. They claim to be stronger than a 3/8" lag, but they
have a 3/16"D shaft.<br>
I've had trouble with regular cheap Home Depot lags twisting off,
so at least these have actual strength ratings, and don't require
predrilling.<br>
They also have a no rust guarantee....<br>
Has anybody else used these? (or the similar Timberlok)?<br>
<br>
Thanks,<br>
<pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified, Licensed Contractor
808 269-7491</pre>
On 2/18/2013 9:25 AM, William Miller wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:6.0.1.1.2.20130218081849.02b44a28@millersolar.com"
type="cite">
Chris:<br>
<br>
We have used the S5 corrugated product before and choose not to
repeat
the experiment for these reasons:<br>
<br>
1. Making roof perforations in any valley defies common sense.<br>
<br>
2. The threaded mounting holes stripped very easily.<br>
<br>
3. I have determined that most common wavelength of corrugated
roofing we
have encountered is 2.67". If you don't have purlins, this is
not a problem since a rafter is 1.5" wide. Worse case
scenario, if a rafter is not under the peak of the corrugation you
scab a
piece of 2X8 next to the rafter and achieve a mounting member to
fasten
to. This is much easier than adding blocking to create
purlins. This only works if you are installing a fastener
through the peak of the corrugation. With the S5 product you have
to find framing under two locations, not one.<br>
<br>
William Miller<br>
<br>
<br>
At 02:04 PM 2/16/2013, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite" class="cite" cite="">The S-5 bracket
looked interesting
until I realized that, on a rafter roof, you would never
consistently
find the rafter under the holes. Even with the SnapNRack single
hole
unit, getting it over 2 x 8 rafters is a nightmare. I have never
seen
rafters that would allow for holes through two valleys. So the
only other
way would be to fasten to the purloins. 3/4" purloin strips are
not
going to give you a lot of embed.<br>
<br>
<br>
On Sat, Feb 16, 2013 at 7:18 PM, August Goers
<<a moz-do-not-send="true" href="mailto:august@luminalt.com">august@luminalt.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
<dl>
<dd>Hi William,<br>
</dd>
<dd> <br>
</dd>
<dd>You may have already seen this corrugated bracket from
S-5: <br>
</dd>
<dd> <br>
</dd>
<dd><a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.s-5.com/clamps/index_2624.cfm">http://www.s-5.com/clamps/index_2624.cfm</a><br>
</dd>
<dd> <br>
</dd>
<dd>I believe it’s best to have the screws go into purlins.
These are
fairly low cost; contact me offlist if you want me to send
you
distributor contact info. <br>
</dd>
<dd> <br>
</dd>
<dd>As far as figuring out what manufacturer/model of roof you
have that
can be tough. Maybe find original building drawings or a
sticker
somewhere on the underside? I’ve also found that the folks
at S-5! are
good at figuring out manufacturers. <br>
</dd>
<dd> <br>
</dd>
<dd>Good luck! -August
</dd>
</dl>
</blockquote>
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
</body>
</html>