<html><head></head><body bgcolor="#FFFFFF"><div>I have the T8 LEDs in my house and garage, I've had them running for a year or so, I'm not home to check the brand, but I really like them for the shop, especially come winter. I'm by no means a lighting retrofit guy, so maybe I just bought into a tech to soon, but they seem to work good for me.</div><div><br></div><div>Jesse</div><div><br>Sent from my iPad!!!</div><div><br>On Dec 5, 2012, at 3:53 PM, Mick Abraham <<a href="mailto:mick@abrahamsolar.com">mick@abrahamsolar.com</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><div></div><blockquote type="cite"><div>Hi, Knuckle-Busters~<br><br>It's lighting retrofit time and also time for me to review "what I thought I knew" about various lighting technologies. <br><br>+++++++++++++++++++++++++<br><br>Round one of the conversion involves >>well known RV brand<< T8 tubular fluorescent fixtures (3' long single tube). These have 24vDC ballasts which (in various brands) have failed way too often...and the tubes also are failing too soon. <br>
<br>I've mostly decided to convert the circuits to good ol' American AC instead of DC, then I gotta select ballasts (to stay fluor) or convert to LED. Some of the List members handle lighting retrofits for better energy efficiency, etc. so I need a refresher course.<br>
<br>+++++++++++++++++++++++<br><br>For AC ballasts, I'm focusing on the "Programmed Start" type which seem less destructive to the tubes when cycled on and off frequently. I could drive three tubes with one ballast but then a single bulb failure sends the whole group to black since the tubes connect in series. <br>
<br>Is there a way to test a fluorescent tube using a volt-ohmmeter or other non-exotic method? The cost benefit of sharing a ballast among three fixtures goes smaller if it's a hassle at lamp replacement time. A failed ballast would be tricky to spot with three lamps adding more variables. <br>
<br>+++++++++++++++++++++++++<br><br>I see there are now T8 tubular LED lamps which of course deliver more lumens per watt and of course they are still costly. With no ballast to buy, if I compared devoting a $25 ballast to each fixture against converting to a $50 LED tube, "it's only double the cost" to go LED.<br>
<br>Is LED now ready for prime time? I got on that band wagon too early because the "white light" units were moonlight blue, they seemed dimmer than a flashlight, color rendition was poor, and worst of all:<br>
<br>
My early LED purchases stopped working properly >>as should not be the case if LED is done right.<< Admittedly, my early LED buys were--don't get me started--designed for DC and I think the battery voltage fluctuation may play havoc with LED and also with the DC fluorescent ballasts. <br>
<br>Final question: how could I be sure that new LED lights won't "roach out" in a few years? My untrained eye has never helped me avoid crummy tech before, so I guess it comes down to identifying one (or more) major manufacturer, maybe with a long warranty and a good likelihood of staying in business. <br>
<br>My friends and I must stop buying junk that's going to break--even if it is all hyped up about being the "New Latest Environmentally Correct Energy Saver". Those >>well known RV brand<< fluorescents are a case in point to say nothing of round two: DC driven CFL's!<br>
<br>Thanks & Jolliness,<br><br><div>Mick Abraham, Proprietor<br><a href="http://www.abrahamsolar.com" target="_blank">www.abrahamsolar.com</a><br><br>Voice: 970-731-4675</div><br>
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