Thanks for the information, I really like these fasteners.<div>Bronze not stainless? We normally use stainless for everything. Given our coastal location, we want to avoid corrosion.<div><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Jul 3, 2012 at 1:46 PM, Bill Hoffer <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:sunengser@gmail.com" target="_blank">sunengser@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Chris<br><br>Bronze Star Construction Lags are what I use. I usually use the 5/16" and 1/4" with the most thread I can into the truss without popping out the other side. I have dropped to #7 with more penetrations if the truss warranted it.<br>
<br><a href="http://www.screw-products.com/star-drive-construction-lag-screws.htm" target="_blank">http://www.screw-products.com/star-drive-construction-lag-screws.htm</a><br><br>Here is their strength tests for 5/16", very comparable to lags. I tend to be pretty conservative and use a 2x - 2.5x strength tests safety factor with almost all my fasteners, especially blind attachment to trusses. Full test results are available.<br>
<br><a href="http://www.screw-products.com/specs.htm" target="_blank">http://www.screw-products.com/specs.htm</a><br><br>I have had luck with Cannon gasket for butyl or EDPM washers, use .75 dia outer with dia of fastener inner about .25" thick. About $.15 each for 1000, about half that for 2500. Can order direct online. Buytl to me works better since it flows well when tightened.<br>
<br><a href="http://www.cannongasket.com/" target="_blank">http://www.cannongasket.com/</a><br><br>I believe there are several manufacturers making these types of screws now, so there may be other sources.<br><br>Hope that helps!<span class="HOEnZb"><font color="#888888"><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>Bill</font></span><div class="HOEnZb"><div class="h5"><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Jul 3, 2012 at 6:43 AM, Chris Mason <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:cometenergysystems@gmail.com" target="_blank">cometenergysystems@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Bill,<div>Can you provide a link to the product you are using - I found a lot of screws on that site but none called "structural".</div>
<div><br></div><div>Thanks</div><div><br></div><div>Chris<br><br><div class="gmail_quote">
On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 7:08 PM, Bill Hoffer <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:sunengser@gmail.com" target="_blank">sunengser@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
Mark<br><br>Lags for me are old hat after using the newer structural screws. I get them local from <a href="http://www.screw-products.com" target="_blank">www.screw-products.com</a> although I know there are more companies out there that make them for the Structural Insulation Panel industry. Thinner than lags with comparable strength, they drive easy with no predrilling, and are less likely to blow out a truss. Come in many different lengths and use a special star head with a built in washer. I use thick butyl tape on the foot and a small rubber washer on the screw head , together they work great! If you want a little more security a dab of the appropriate sealer in the foot slot before finally tightening it down works too. Only way to go on corrugated metal roofs where there is no real option for flashing.<br>
<br>Bill<div><div><br><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div>On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 3:40 PM, <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:mark@hurshtown.com" target="_blank">mark@hurshtown.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
</div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div><span style="font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana"><div><div style="font-size:10pt;font-family:verdana,geneva">My 18V Milwaukee cordless hammer drill has no trouble driving a 5/16" lag into anything I've ever encountered.</div>
<div style="font-size:10pt;font-family:verdana,geneva">If you put the lag anywhere near the middle of the rafter it won't split. If it splits, it must be some cheap stuff from Home Depot. </div><div style="font-size:10pt;font-family:verdana,geneva">
Only an engineer with no practical experience would insist on a pilot hole and the resulting reduction in holding strength. I'm assuming the IBC consists of a bunch of bureaucrats that value control over common sense.</div>
<div style="font-size:10pt;font-family:verdana,geneva">In this instance flashing offers no benefit, and may even be counter-productive if incorrectly installed and it causes rain to collect under it. My experience is in northern Indiana where it does rain and the wind does blow. (Record 91 mph winds last Thursday.) Less severe weather than Michigan, but close.</div>
<div style="font-size:10pt"><span style="text-indent:0px;letter-spacing:normal;font-variant:normal;text-align:-webkit-auto;font-style:normal;display:inline!important;font-weight:normal;float:none;line-height:normal;text-transform:none;font-size:13px;white-space:normal;font-family:verdana;word-spacing:0px">I use the best silicone caulk Menards has to offer. I've never worried about compatibility. It definitely won't dry up and crack away like the black roof cement some swear by and insist on. 15+ year old silicone caulk is yellowed a bit but that's the only change.</span></div>
<div style="font-size:10pt"><span style="text-indent:0px;letter-spacing:normal;font-variant:normal;text-align:-webkit-auto;font-style:normal;display:inline!important;font-weight:normal;float:none;line-height:normal;text-transform:none;font-size:13px;white-space:normal;font-family:verdana;word-spacing:0px">If the silicone and shingle aren't getting along, I've never heard them complain.</span></div>
<div style="font-size:10pt"><span style="text-indent:0px;letter-spacing:normal;font-variant:normal;text-align:-webkit-auto;font-style:normal;display:inline!important;font-weight:normal;float:none;line-height:normal;text-transform:none;font-size:13px;white-space:normal;font-family:verdana;word-spacing:0px"><br>
</span></div><div style="font-size:10pt"><span style="text-indent:0px;letter-spacing:normal;font-variant:normal;text-align:-webkit-auto;font-style:normal;display:inline!important;font-weight:normal;float:none;line-height:normal;text-transform:none;font-size:13px;white-space:normal;font-family:verdana;word-spacing:0px">Mark</span></div>
<div><span style="text-indent:0px;text-align:-webkit-auto;display:inline!important;float:none"><font face="verdana">(Disclaimer: Portions of the preceding are the opinions of the author.)</font></span></div><div><span style="text-indent:0px;text-align:-webkit-auto;display:inline!important;float:none"><font face="verdana"><br>
</font></span></div></div><div style="font-size:10pt"><div><div>
-------- Original Message --------<br>
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof<br></div><div>
From: Dave Click <<a href="mailto:daveclick@fsec.ucf.edu" target="_blank">daveclick@fsec.ucf.edu</a>><br>
Date: Mon, July 02, 2012 10:29 am<br>
To: <a href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org" target="_blank">re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</a><br>
<br>
I always thought that installing lag screws was tough enough with pilot <br>
holes- I should hit the gym. I'm not a structural PE, but I think that <br>
not drilling pilot holes violates the American Wood Council's National <br>
Design Specs and therefore violates the IBC too. I would imagine that <br>
you'd be much more likely to split your trusses. IBC also requires <br>
flashings be used but at least around here inspectors never ask for it <br>
(which makes sense- as you all know, Florida never sees wind or rain, <br>
and definitely not at the same time). What silicone do you use that's <br>
compatible with asphalt shingles?<br>
<br>
DKC<br>
<br></div><div>
On 2012/7/1 21:13, <a href="mailto:mark@hurshtown.com" target="_blank">mark@hurshtown.com</a> wrote:<br>
> In my 20 year experience of lagging down L feet on shingle roofs in<br>
> Indiana with a good dollop of silicone caulk under the foot, I've never<br>
> had an issue. No pre-drilling, just drive the lag home. Drilling a hole<br>
> first is not necessary, and reduces holding strength. No reason to make<br>
> a science project out of it and increase cost and labor.<br>
><br>
> Mark<br>
><br>
> -------- Original Message --------<br>
> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof<br>
> From: Drake <<a href="mailto:drake.chamberlin@redwoodalliance.org" target="_blank">drake.chamberlin@redwoodalliance.org</a><br></div><div>
> <<a href="mailto:drake.chamberlin@redwoodalliance.org" target="_blank">mailto:drake.chamberlin@redwoodalliance.org</a>>><br>
> Date: Fri, June 29, 2012 3:09 pm<br>
> To: RE-wrenches <<a href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org" target="_blank">re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</a><br></div><div><div>
> <<a href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org" target="_blank">mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>>><br>
><br>
> Hi Jay,<br>
><br>
> There is no room for flashings. The L feet will go very close to the<br>
> skylights and the flashing would hit the edge of them. Plus there is<br>
> an existing array that was done by another installer that is done<br>
> with L feet only. The new array would be higher.<br>
><br>
><br>
>> And given that we have really good off the shelf approved flashed<br>
>> feet, why would you use anything else?<br>
>><br>
>> My 2 cents,<br>
>><br>
>> Jay<br>
>><br>
>> peltz power<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> On Jun 29, 2012, at 5:16 AM, Glenn Burt wrote:<br>
>><br>
>>> We have used a variety of sealants over the years, and determined<br>
>>> simple Henry roofing cement is the best product for use on comp<br>
>>> roofing.<br>
>>><br>
>>> We also used to bend our own L-foot flashing, which we cut from<br>
>>> standard Al coil stock (before all the manufactured options were<br>
>>> available). This might be a good option for you in this case.<br>
>>><br>
>>><br>
>>><br>
>>> Glenn<br>
>>><br></div></div><div>
>>> *From:* <a href="mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org" target="_blank">re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org</a><br>
>>> <<a href="mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org" target="_blank">mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>><br>
>>> [<a href="mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org" target="_blank">mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>] *On Behalf Of<br>
>>> *Drake<br>
>>> *Sent:* Thursday, June 28, 2012 6:40 PM<br>
>>> *To:* RE-wrenches<br></div>
>>> *Subject:* [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof<div><br>
>>><br>
>>> I'm quoting a job that has an existing array with L feet bolted<br>
>>> down to a shingle roof with no flashings. I want to match the<br>
>>> height of the existing array. Also some modules are being worked<br>
>>> in around skylights where it is unlikely that room would be<br>
>>> available for flashings to center over rafters.<br>
>>><br>
>>> I've always used flashings. Would it be completely crazy to<br>
>>> follow suit of the existing array and bolt L feet straight to the<br>
>>> shingle roof with good roof sealant? If so, how would you seal it?<br>
> Drake Chamberlin<br>
> ATHENS ELECTRIC LLC<br>
> OH License 44810<br>
> CO license 3773<br>
> NABCEP Certified PV<br></div>
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<br></div></blockquote></div><br><br clear="all"><span><font color="#888888"><br></font></span></div></div><span><font color="#888888"><span><font color="#888888">-- <br>Bill Hoffer PE<br>NABCEP Certified Solar PV Installer™<br>
Sunergy Engineering Services PLLC<br>2504 Columbia Ave NW<br>
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