<html><body><span style="font-family:Verdana; color:#000000; font-size:10pt;"><div>Early on I learned to fill the pre drilled hole with a non asphalt eating caulk like geo cell (Or something similar), and then used two layers of a polybutyl tape and stainless hardware. The trick is not to lag down the L-feet so tight that it smooshes out all the poly. You also need to be real careful if you need to work off the rails.. If you do (Depending on pitch), It might be a good idea to double up on L feet or use a chicken ladder (Just something to spread your weight). Good luck. db<br></div><div><br></div><div><br>Dan Brown<br>Foxfire Energy Corp.<br>Renewable Energy Systems<br>(802)-483-2564<br><a href="http://www.Foxfire-Energy.com">www.Foxfire-Energy.com</a><br>NABCEP #092907-44</div><div><br><br></div>
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Subject: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof<br>
From: Drake <<a href="mailto:drake.chamberlin@redwoodalliance.org">drake.chamberlin@redwoodalliance.org</a>><br>
Date: Thu, June 28, 2012 6:39 pm<br>
To: RE-wrenches <<a href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org">re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>><br>
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I'm quoting a job that has an existing array with L feet bolted down to a shingle roof with no flashings. I want to match the height of the existing array. Also some modules are being worked in around skylights where it is unlikely that room would be available for flashings to center over rafters.<br><br> I've always used flashings. Would it be completely crazy to follow suit of the existing array and bolt L feet straight to the shingle roof with good roof sealant? If so, how would you seal it?<br><br> Thanks,<br><br> Drake <br> <x-sigsep><div> <font size="2">Drake Chamberlin<x-tab> </x-tab> <br> ATHENS ELECTRIC LLC<br> OH License 44810<x-tab> </x-tab><br> CO license 3773<br> NABCEP Certified PV<br> </font> </div><hr>_______________________________________________<br>
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