<html><body><div style="color:#000; background-color:#fff; font-family:arial, helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt"><div><span>this is a 240 volt transfer switch and also shown is a 600 volt safety switch single pole single throw</span></div><div><br></div><div style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><div style="font-family: times new roman, new york, times, serif; font-size: 12pt;"><font size="2" face="Arial"><div style="margin: 5px 0px; padding: 0px; border: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); height: 0px; line-height: 0; font-size: 0px;" class="hr" contentEditable="false" readonly="true"></div><b><span style="font-weight: bold;">From:</span></b> "maverick@mavericksolar.com" <maverick@mavericksolar.com><br><b><span style="font-weight: bold;">To:</span></b> RE-wrenches <re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org><br><b><span style="font-weight: bold;">Sent:</span></b> Wednesday, November 9, 2011 9:55 PM<br><b><span
style="font-weight: bold;">Subject:</span></b> Re: [RE-wrenches] High Voltage MPPT units; Adding battery backup<br></font><br>
<div id="yiv99220556"><div><div>I googled "600 volt switch dual throw" and found a cutler-hammer DT363URK.</div><div><br></div><div>From http://www.alliedelec.com/Images/Products/Datasheets/BM/EATON_CUTLER_HAMMER/416-0447.PDF</div><div><br></div><div>Not sure if it carries a DC rating all the way to 600v. </div><div><br></div><div><br></div>
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</div><div><br><div><br></div><div>Thank you,</div><div><br></div><div>Maverick</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>Maverick Brown</div><div>BSEET, NABCEP Certified Solar PV Installer ®</div><div>President & CEO</div><div>Maverick Solar Enterprises, Inc.</div><div>Office: 512-919-4493</div><div>Cell: 512-460-9825</div><div><br></div>Sent from my HondaJet!</div><div><br>On Nov 9, 2011, at 6:07 PM, "Larry Crutcher,Starlight Solar Power Systems" <<a href="mailto:larry@starlightsolar.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank" ymailto="mailto:larry@starlightsolar.com">larry@starlightsolar.com</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><div></div><blockquote type="cite"><div><span>Right.... a major rewire and many components...and sacrifices. The Outback is limited to 30 amps AC and cost much more than you would need to spend. </span><br><span></span><br><span>With my idea you just add a transfer switch....Done. When the grid
is down, PV feeds HV CC. Then you can use ANY size inverter, with or without a transfer switch. No rewiring the grid inverter. No 240 volt transformers or dual inverters. No relays, switches or diversion controllers. Batteries are always properly maintained. No phantom loads. Very simple. </span><br><span></span><br><span>Thanks for your input. Now if I can just find that darn 600 volt transfer switch.</span><br><span></span><br><span>Larry Crutcher</span><br><span>Starlight Solar Power Systems</span><br><span></span><br><span></span><br><span></span><br><span>On Nov 9, 2011, at 1:55 PM, Drake wrote:</span><br><span></span><br><blockquote type="cite"><span>Any amount of power will AC couple. </span><br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><span></span><br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><span>If you use an off grid inverter, such as an Outback, to feed the protected load panel, the inverter should be fed by grid AC power to supply loads, when
the grid is available. Just feed your grid tie inverter into the protected loads panel. You will need a relay to shut off power from the grid tie inverter when the batteries are full. This can be triggered by the fan relay in the Outback. </span><br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><span></span><br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><span>The on grid inverter will push power into the grid through the battery inverter's internal transfer switch during normal operation and AC couple when the power is out. If your grid tie inverter is 240 volts, you will need to use a transformer or two inverters. </span><br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><span></span><br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><span>The phantom load of the inverter can be eliminated by using a transfer switch to send PV power straight to the grid, during normal grid availability, keeping the inverter turned off. AC coupling seems
much easier than using a charge controller, but there is no conditioning of the batteries. The charge is just on and off at the voltage set point. For a back up system, that is not much of a problem, as the battery inverter can maintain the batteries when power is available. </span><br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><span></span><br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><span></span><br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><span></span><br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><span>At 02:04 PM 11/9/2011, you wrote:</span><br></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><blockquote type="cite"><span>Nice Find, Drake! Thanks. </span><br></blockquote></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><blockquote type="cite"><span></span><br></blockquote></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><blockquote type="cite"><span>What is the minimum system for an AC coupled inverter? </span><br></blockquote></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><blockquote
type="cite"><span></span><br></blockquote></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><blockquote type="cite"><span>Again, the idea is for low cost battery backup of an existing grid tie. The AC coupled schematics I have looked at require a major rewire and many components. I would like to hear if someone has a simple add on solution compared to just switching the array to the high voltage CC.</span><br></blockquote></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><blockquote type="cite"><span></span><br></blockquote></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><blockquote type="cite"><span>Larry Crutcher</span><br></blockquote></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><blockquote type="cite"><span>Starlight Solar Power Systems</span><br></blockquote></blockquote><span>_______________________________________________</span><br><span>List sponsored by Home Power magazine</span><br><span></span><br><span>List Address: <a href="mailto:RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org" rel="nofollow"
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