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<DIV><FONT color=#008000 size=4 face=Arial>Hi John</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#008000 size=4 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#008000 size=4 face=Arial>When you say ' corrugated ---with
flat spans and ribs-- do you mean what is generally called Grand Rib
around here in Va. 8" flat panel with a low 1" wide area in the middle of the
flat panel, then a rib 1"+ high, held on to the roof sheathing with hex head
screws and sealing washers?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#008000 size=4 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#008000 size=4 face=Arial>If so, we just did a job like that
and used ' Peel and Stick ' membrane cut to make pads under the L feet,
predrilled for the 5/16" x 3" lags into as many truss top chords or rafters
we could hit--the ribs sometimes intervene, in which case we use 3/8 2" lags--
with a healthy dollup of black silicone in the hole and under the L feet. When
the silicone squeezes out from under the foot, I always smooth it out with a
finger, especially on the uphill side to better shed water and avoid an area
where freeze- thaw can degrade the bond to the roof. Be sure the metal in clean
before application. The silicone should squeeze out of the hole as the lag goes
in, and any silicone on your finger is applied to the head of the lag, but that
is more a place to get rid of it than a permanent water barrier.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#008000 size=4 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#008000 size=4 face=Arial>If it's true sinusoidal corrogated
about 5 years ago we mounted a thermal panel by making custom</FONT><FONT
color=#008000 size=4 face=Arial> feet that spanned two peaks with a EPDM
rubber gasket under the foot where the screws penetrated, one into
each peak. Hard to hit rafters, so decking type , thickness, decking fasterner
type and schedule, metal thickness, and L foot screw diameter are all important
factors, dependent on your wind and snow loads. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#008000 size=4 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#008000 size=4 face=Arial>How will you handle the expansion
/contraction issue ?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#008000 size=4 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#008000 size=4 face=Arial>I've used this general method for 30
years, starting with thermal panels.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#008000 size=4 face=Arial>There will probably be other
suggestions as well. More than one way, so long as compounds are
compatible.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#008000 size=4 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#008000 size=4 face=Arial>Ken @ CommonWealth Solar</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=cvsolar@aol.com href="mailto:cvsolar@aol.com">cvsolar@aol.com</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
title=re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org
href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org">re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, November 26, 2010 8:55
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [RE-wrenches] Mounting L feet on
corrugated metal roof.</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT color=black size=2 face=arial>
<DIV><FONT face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"></FONT>Wrenches,</DIV>
<DIV> Do you have any tips, stories, methods for
mounting L feet on the corrugated metal roof that has short flat spans and
ribs.</DIV>
<DIV>After all these years, I am facing my first install on this kind of
roof. We originally were going to install 6 top of pole mounts but he
decided the neighbors would not like the appearance so now we are looking at a
20 x 40' metal roof on the garage. The customer asked about flashing the
L feet. I'm at a loss to figure out how to do that. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>John Blittersdorf</DIV>
<DIV>Central Vermont Solar & Wind</DIV>
<DIV>Rutland, VT 05701</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:cvsolar@aol.com">cvsolar@aol.com</A></DIV>
<DIV><BR><BR> </DIV>
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