<html><body><span style="font-family:Verdana; color:#000000; font-size:10pt;"><div>You might get lucky with an infrared camera.. check in with the local Fire Dept. (maybe a small donation?). good luck. db<br></div><div><br></div><div><br>Dan Brown<br>Foxfire Energy Corp.<br>Renewable Energy Systems<br>(802)-483-2564<br><a href="http://www.Foxfire-Energy.com">www.Foxfire-Energy.com</a><br>NABCEP #092907-44<br><br></div>
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-------- Original Message --------<br>
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Foam Insulation Install<br>
From: <<a href="mailto://holtek@sbcglobal.net">holtek@sbcglobal.net</a>><br>
Date: Mon, July 19, 2010 9:59 am<br>
To: "RE-wrenches" <<a href="mailto://re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org">re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>><br>
<br>
For residential install with the spray foam insulation<br>
<br>
Underside of deck has 12"+ of foam.....no way to accurately locate rafter <br>
there.....hammer and ear also out of the question...........don't think any <br>
of the stud finders will work....been told that peeling back shingles to <br>
locate rafter is only accurate way.......would like to avoid that if <br>
possible..........any suggestions?<br>
<br>
Holt E. Kelly<br>
Holtek Fireplace & Solar Products<br>
500 Jewell Dr.<br>
Waco TX. 76712<br>
254-751-9111<br>
<a href="http://www.holteksolar.com">www.holteksolar.com</a><br>
<br>
----- Original Message ----- <br>
From: "Ken Schaal" <<a href="mailto://ken@commonwealthsolar.com">ken@commonwealthsolar.com</a>><br>
To: "RE-wrenches" <<a href="mailto://re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org">re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>><br>
Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2010 8:25 PM<br>
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Slate roof strategies<br>
<br>
<br>
> During the 80's we installed several SHW jobs on slate, one with 8 - 4x10 <br>
> collectors. It continues to be leak free.<br>
> The key thing to remember is that it is NOT the slate that keeps the water <br>
> out, it is the tar paper underneath the slate. Here in Va. the paper is <br>
> good for about 100 years before it dries out and deteriorates to the point <br>
> where it can break up from wind storms. Then any wind driven rain can lead <br>
> to leaks.<br>
> Of course , there are differing grades of tar paper-----------<br>
><br>
> For mounts to be water tight, the typical technique is to remove a slate <br>
> with a slaters tool to remove the 2 nails holding the slate. Then slide a <br>
> sheet of copper under<br>
> the tar paper shingle fashion--also a good time to check the tar paper to <br>
> see what condition it is in-- so that there is a durable material to seal <br>
> to.Then L feet can be installed with black silicone in the lag hole and <br>
> under the foot, oozing out all around, especially on the uphill side, and <br>
> smooth over to seal the top edge. Snug the lag but do not tighten <br>
> excessively ! We want to maintain a silicone pad.<br>
> For those that need the security of a boot, it can be installed in <br>
> conjunction with the copper flashing. A decorative piece of slate can even <br>
> be installed by cutting a strip or 2 of copper strap that is fastened <br>
> under the boot, or inserted into or under the main flashing, nailed with a <br>
> copper nail and some silicone, extending below the bottom of the slate, <br>
> and then bent up and over the bottom of the slate, making a durable hook. <br>
> Remember, all the slate does is look good and protect the tar paper from <br>
> UV rays.<br>
><br>
> Anytime a plumbing boot is installed, it is best if its inserted into or <br>
> under the roofing material, not just caulked on top of the roofing.<br>
><br>
> I wouldn't use the' hole saw thru the slate' ------------<br>
><br>
> Ken Schaal<br>
> CommonWealth Solar ----slate roof territory<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> ----- Original Message ----- <br>
> From: "Mick Abraham" <<a href="mailto://mick@abrahamsolar.com">mick@abrahamsolar.com</a>><br>
> To: "RE-wrenches" <<a href="mailto://re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org">re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>><br>
> Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2010 4:35 PM<br>
> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Slate roof strategies<br>
><br>
><br>
> Hi, Drake~ Consider this item:<br>
><br>
> <a href="http://www.sunslates.net">http://www.sunslates.net</a>/<br>
><br>
> These are sized to match Eternit brand slates. I know very little else<br>
> about this...but if you have a different size of slates... thinking...<br>
> somebody else is out there with other sizes.<br>
><br>
> OpenEnergy is a brand you might do well to search out, and friend<br>
> Brian on this list with Eagle Roofing may have other suggestions.<br>
><br>
> The "holesaw through the slate" idea sounds to me like it would<br>
> ultimately rely on a caulked seal between the Oatey flashing and the<br>
> slate upon which it rests. That sounds risky for what is probably a<br>
> high end roof with a high end structure beneath.<br>
><br>
> Jolliness,<br>
><br>
> Mick Abraham, Proprietor<br>
> <a href="http://www.abrahamsolar.com">www.abrahamsolar.com</a><br>
><br>
> Voice: 970-731-4675<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> On Sun, Jul 18, 2010 at 2:19 PM, Drake Chamberlin<br>
> <<a href="mailto://drake.chamberlin@redwoodalliance.org">drake.chamberlin@redwoodalliance.org</a>> wrote:<br>
>> Hi Wrenches,<br>
>><br>
>> There was a strategy mentioned for slate roofs recently. Removing the <br>
>> slate<br>
>> under the array area and replacing with decking and shingles would <br>
>> certainly<br>
>> work. That might be the best solution.<br>
>><br>
>> There are two potential problems however.<br>
>><br>
>> It would cost a fair amount to replace that portion of the roof<br>
>> My slate roof guy estimates that the existing rock is good for another<br>
>> hundred years with a little maintenance. The slate is an incredible <br>
>> roofing<br>
>> material, and it would be a shame to scrap it.<br>
>><br>
>> One strategy that might work would be to take a diamond hole saw and cut<br>
>> circles of slate out, over the rafters, to screw standoffs directly to <br>
>> the<br>
>> rafters. Then an Oatey flashing could go over the standoff.<br>
>><br>
>> Any feedback as to the viability of this method would be appreciated.<br>
>><br>
>> Thanks,<br>
>><br>
>> Drake Chamberlin<br>
>> Athens Electric<br>
>> OH License 44810<br>
>> CO License 3773<br>
>> NABCEP TM Certified PV Installer<br>
>> Office - 740-448-7328<br>
>> Mobile - 740-856-9648<br>
>><br>
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