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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D">We're using coolie caps for our installations at this point and
of course they are a very robust solution. We typically make them in house.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D">That said, Chemlink makes a product called DuraSil which is
supposidly good up to 400F and compatible with copper: </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D"><a href="http://www.chemlinkinc.com/docs/datasheets/chemlink_durasil.pdf">http://www.chemlinkinc.com/docs/datasheets/chemlink_durasil.pdf</a></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D">They are coming out with a self leveling version of this product
that will work in a Chemcurb. Might be a good option for flat roofs.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D">-August</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D"> </span></p>
<div>
<div style="border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"">From:</span></b><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"">
<a href="mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org">re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>
[mailto:<a href="mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org">re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Bill
Loesch<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, June 09, 2010 10:36 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> RE-wrenches<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [RE-wrenches] solar hot water penetration flashing</span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"">The
coolie caps are really just regular (oversized) caps which have been
punched out to snugly accommodate the pipe to be sealed. Tom Lane's book,
Solar Hot Water Systems, Lessons Learned ..., addresses this sealing
method and many more. AET Solar in Jacksonville, FL stocks this item as well
as almost anything solar thermal you could want.</span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"">One
solution for exposed rubber or (more precisely) the filler bushing seal on the
combination metal / flexible insert seal Oatey style flashings is paint.
One meticulous homeowner had done that on his '80's vintage system and the
flexibility of the seal was just like new. He identified it as latex paint. I
would want to be very sure that whatever I used on that flexible material was
compatible for many many years since unlike a typical plumbing flashing which
can be relatively easily replaced by simply inserting the seal over
the end of the vent, the loop of pipe, common with SDHW does not allow
that luxury.</span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"">Bill
Loesch</span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"">Solar
1 - Saint Louis Solar</span></p>
</div>
<blockquote style="border:none;border-left:solid black 1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 4.0pt;
margin-left:3.75pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"">-----
Original Message ----- </span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background:#E4E4E4"><b><span style="font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"">From:</span></b><span style="font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Arial","sans-serif""> <a href="mailto:nponzio@buildingenergyus.com" title="nponzio@buildingenergyus.com">Nik Ponzio</a> </span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"">To:</span></b><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif""> <a href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org" title="re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org">RE-wrenches</a> </span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"">Sent:</span></b><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif""> Wednesday, June 09,
2010 10:05 AM</span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"">Subject:</span></b><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif""> Re: [RE-wrenches]
solar hot water penetration flashing</span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt">This is an on-going problem,
apparently. We were getting the coolie cap fittings from EFI but they got out
of the solar business recently.<br>
<br>
Does anyone have a source for these now?<br>
<br>
Thanks in advance.<br>
<br>
<br clear="all">
--<br>
Nicholas Ponzio<br>
NABCEP Certified Photovoltaic Installer<br>
<br>
Building Energy<br>
1570 South Brownell Road<br>
Williston, VT 05495<br>
t: 802-859-3384 x15<br>
f: 802-658-3982<br>
c: 802-365-1973<br>
<a href="http://www.BuildingEnergyVT.com">www.BuildingEnergyVT.com</a><br>
<br>
</p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 9:24 PM, Karl Schwingel <<a href="mailto:karl@northwindrenewable.com">karl@northwindrenewable.com</a>>
wrote:</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I use similar boots, and design the penetration so the
insulation and wrap ( we use aluminum) nearly cover the whole boot by the time
you're all done. you're left with about 1/2" of boot showing all the
way around. <br>
where can I get the coolie cap style brazed copper flashings?<br>
<br>
karl<br>
<br>
Todd Cory wrote:</p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">I use accordion style rubber boots. These are typically
attached to the roofing with a bead of silicone underneath and gasketed metal
roofing screws on top. These are made for all kinds of metal roof penetrations
and I have even seen them used for 6" metalbestos stove flues. One note of
caution, the orange "high temperature" ones are (I think) rated only
to 180 degrees F. so you want to make sure the SHW fluid never exceeds this.
Also in time, like any rubber flashing on a roof the rubber will deteriorate
from UV. I build a show shed over my system's plumbing which shades it so
hopefully this will not be in issue in ~20 years.<br>
<br>
Todd<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
troy Harvey wrote:</p>
</div>
</div>
<blockquote style="border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 6.0pt;
margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in">
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Any thoughts on how to flash a copper pipe roof penetration
on a metal roof. The brazed copper flashing we typically use would cause
corrosion with the steel roof I'm afraid. WHat have others used in this
situation?<br>
<br>
Troy Harvey<br>
---------------------<br>
Heliocentric<br>
801-453-9434</p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt"><a href="mailto:taharvey@heliocentric.org" target="_blank">taharvey@heliocentric.org</a>
<mailto:<a href="mailto:taharvey@heliocentric.org" target="_blank">taharvey@heliocentric.org</a>></p>
</blockquote>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><br>
-- <br>
Karl Schwingel<br>
NABCEP Certified Solar Thermal Installer<br>
NorthWind Renewable Energy LLC<br>
<br>
PO Box 723 Stevens Point, WI 54481<br>
Karl@Northwindre.com<br>
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<br>
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