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<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>You can also use GE Silicone RTV-108 sold by
Grainger.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"
dir=ltr>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=joel.davidson@sbcglobal.net
href="mailto:joel.davidson@sbcglobal.net">Joel Davidson</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
title=re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org
href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org">RE-wrenches</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, May 25, 2010 6:07 PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel
backing</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Brian is correct. 739 is a reliable sealant.
Some people put acid-free, clear, insulating tape on the tear
after cleaning (clean, dry or lightly damp cotton cloth) and drying (heat gun
on low setting or hair dryer) the area and before applying the silicone. The
tape is optional.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Joel Davidson</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=bteitelbaum@aeesolar.com
href="mailto:bteitelbaum@aeesolar.com">Brian Teitelbaum</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
title=re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org
href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org">RE-wrenches</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, May 25, 2010 4:51
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel
backing</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV class=Section1>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="COLOR: #1f497d">I like Blair’s idea, but
I’ve always used a silicone sealant that doesn’t use acetic acid as the
curing agent. Dow #739 is one type, but any silicone sealant that is rated
as food-grade, or for aquariums, should work fine. The 739 is a
“moisture-cure”, 100% silicone, which uses moisture present in the air as
the curing agent. I was told many years ago that this is the stuff that is
used by module manufacturers to attach and seal module junction boxes and
the exit point in the laminate where the tabs come out. It would be great if
a module rep could confirm this with us.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="COLOR: #1f497d"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="COLOR: #1f497d">Brian
Teitelbaum<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="COLOR: #1f497d">AEE
Solar<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="COLOR: #1f497d"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="COLOR: #1f497d"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="COLOR: #1f497d"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<DIV>
<DIV
style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; BORDER-LEFT: medium none; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; PADDING-LEFT: 0in; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-TOP: #b5c4df 1pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; PADDING-TOP: 3pt">
<P class=MsoNormal><B><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Tahoma','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">From:</SPAN></B><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Tahoma','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">
re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org] <B>On Behalf Of </B>Blair
May<BR><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, May 25, 2010 3:09 AM<BR><B>To:</B>
'RE-wrenches'<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel
backing<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P></DIV></DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></P>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial','sans-serif'; COLOR: blue; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">I
use a heat gun to remove moisture & smooth out the rip then I've used
some bitchathane w/ foil tape over that.</SPAN><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman','serif'; FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial','sans-serif'; COLOR: blue; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">I am
not sure about the possible corrosive effects of the silicone during
curing.</SPAN><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman','serif'; FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></P></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="MARGIN-TOP: 5pt; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 5pt; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0in"><P
style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 12pt" class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Tahoma','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">-----Original
Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org] <B>On Behalf Of
</B>bob<BR><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, May 25, 2010 5:49 AM<BR><B>To:</B>
'RE-wrenches'<BR><B>Subject:</B> [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel
backing</SPAN><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman','serif'; FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt">I have a customer who
just put a rip in the (tedlar?) on the back of a Solar World 175 watt
panel. For some reason he thought that he needed to move the leg to a
different hole on his RGM mount instead of just collapsing
it.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt">What’s the best way to
seal it back up?<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt">There is no other
internal damage that is noticeable its about 1.5” long and ½” at the
widest end.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt">My first thought is to
use silicone caulk, but I thought I would pick the collective brain, so to
speak.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt">Thanks,<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt">Bob
Ellison<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<P>
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