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<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Brian is correct. 739 is a reliable sealant.
Some people put acid-free, clear, insulating tape on the tear
after cleaning (clean, dry or lightly damp cotton cloth) and drying (heat gun on
low setting or hair dryer) the area and before applying the silicone. The tape
is optional.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Joel Davidson</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=bteitelbaum@aeesolar.com href="mailto:bteitelbaum@aeesolar.com">Brian
Teitelbaum</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
title=re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org
href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org">RE-wrenches</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, May 25, 2010 4:51 PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel
backing</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV class=Section1>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="COLOR: #1f497d">I like Blair’s idea, but I’ve
always used a silicone sealant that doesn’t use acetic acid as the curing
agent. Dow #739 is one type, but any silicone sealant that is rated as
food-grade, or for aquariums, should work fine. The 739 is a “moisture-cure”,
100% silicone, which uses moisture present in the air as the curing agent. I
was told many years ago that this is the stuff that is used by module
manufacturers to attach and seal module junction boxes and the exit point in
the laminate where the tabs come out. It would be great if a module rep could
confirm this with us.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="COLOR: #1f497d"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="COLOR: #1f497d">Brian
Teitelbaum<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="COLOR: #1f497d">AEE
Solar<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="COLOR: #1f497d"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="COLOR: #1f497d"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="COLOR: #1f497d"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<DIV>
<DIV
style="BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; BORDER-LEFT: medium none; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; PADDING-LEFT: 0in; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-TOP: #b5c4df 1pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; PADDING-TOP: 3pt">
<P class=MsoNormal><B><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Tahoma','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">From:</SPAN></B><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Tahoma','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">
re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org] <B>On Behalf Of </B>Blair
May<BR><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, May 25, 2010 3:09 AM<BR><B>To:</B>
'RE-wrenches'<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel
backing<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P></DIV></DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></P>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial','sans-serif'; COLOR: blue; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">I use
a heat gun to remove moisture & smooth out the rip then I've used some
bitchathane w/ foil tape over that.</SPAN><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman','serif'; FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial','sans-serif'; COLOR: blue; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">I am
not sure about the possible corrosive effects of the silicone during
curing.</SPAN><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman','serif'; FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></P></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="MARGIN-TOP: 5pt; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 5pt; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0in">
<P style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 12pt" class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Tahoma','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">-----Original
Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org] <B>On Behalf Of
</B>bob<BR><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, May 25, 2010 5:49 AM<BR><B>To:</B>
'RE-wrenches'<BR><B>Subject:</B> [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel
backing</SPAN><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman','serif'; FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt">I have a customer who just
put a rip in the (tedlar?) on the back of a Solar World 175 watt panel. For
some reason he thought that he needed to move the leg to a different hole on
his RGM mount instead of just collapsing it.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt">What’s the best way to seal
it back up?<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt">There is no other internal
damage that is noticeable its about 1.5” long and ½” at the widest
end.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt">My first thought is to use
silicone caulk, but I thought I would pick the collective brain, so to
speak.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt">Thanks,<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt">Bob
Ellison<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<P>
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