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Hi guys,<br>
<br>
I have been using the SS water loop in my Amish wood cookstove<br>
for my domestic hot water for 9 years now. My tank is a 40 gallon <br>
electric water heater (space saver unit) and is configured for thermo <br>
siphon operation.<br>
<br>
The P/T valve is all I have for protection and I have to be honest, <br>
I kind of knew this was probably not a great idea right from the start!<br>
<br>
But it works....the valve opens up and discharges into a piping system<br>
located under a raised bed planting area in our attached green house.<br>
So we get the benefit of the 'waste' heat. The valve opens, on average,<br>
about 1 or 2 times a week during the coldest part of the winter.<br>
<br>
I replace the P/T valve every other heating season because it does<br>
begin to weep a bit. So that may be what's saved my ignorant butt<br>
from being blown to bits.....maybe.<br>
<br>
My question....is there a more robust version of that P/T valve<br>
that I should be using? Something that you would use in a boiler
perhaps?<br>
<br>
I'm hoping to not have to change the system too much....I love the <br>
long, guilt free showers....more so because the electricity for the<br>
pump comes from my off-grid hybrid system.<br>
<br>
I'm so much better at PV and wind systems....hot water scares me!<br>
<br>
<pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">Roy Butler
NABCEP Certified Solar PV Installer®
NYSERDA eligible PV & wind installer
Four Winds Renewable Energy, LLC
8902 Route 46
Arkport, NY 14807
607-324-9747
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.four-winds-energy.com">www.four-winds-energy.com</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.nationalsolarsupply.com">www.nationalsolarsupply.com</a>
Although no trees were killed in the sending of this message,
a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
</pre>
<br>
<br>
Todd Cory wrote:
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<font size="+1"><font face="Arial">Sure, but the discussion was about
preventing hot water storage tanks from exploding. Putting BTUs into a
tank, whether that be from a wood stove loop or 5 kW electric heating
element is not the issue. Relying on a P/T valve to regulate
overheating is of course not a good idea, but it will prevent the tank
from exploding.<br>
<br>
Todd<br>
<br>
<br>
</font></font><br>
Conrad Geyser wrote:
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<p class="MsoNormal"><font color="navy" face="Arial" size="2"><span
style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial; color: navy;">Todd,<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><font color="navy" face="Arial" size="2"><span
style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial; color: navy;"><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><font color="navy" face="Arial" size="2"><span
style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial; color: navy;">I’m afraid
that any PT valves that I’ve
ever known have continued to weep indefinitely after one or two
overheat
triggers. <o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><font color="navy" face="Arial" size="2"><span
style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial; color: navy;">I would not
recommend relying on them for
heat control devices.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><font color="navy" face="Arial" size="2"><span
style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial; color: navy;"><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><font color="navy" face="Arial" size="2"><span
style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial; color: navy;">Conrad <o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><font color="navy" face="Arial" size="2"><span
style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial; color: navy;">Cotuit Solar<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><font color="navy" face="Arial" size="2"><span
style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial; color: navy;">NABCEP
thermal cert.</span></font></p>
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