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<div class=Section1>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 color=black face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>I’m not sure if we have discussed
this before, but I would like to get opinions on the relative merits of the
following two approaches to setting stanchions and flashing them in for a roof
mounted PV system:</span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 color=black face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:12.0pt;color:black'> </span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 color=black face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>Existing comp shingle roof in good condition.
Professional Solar Fast-Jacks (or similar stanchions that result in a ¾”
to 1” post to which to attach rails). I am not endorsing ProSolar
products, I just wanted a specific example to work with.</span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 color=black face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:12.0pt;color:black'> </span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 color=black face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>Approach #1: Lag stanchions directly onto existing
comp shingle roof; cut a inverted “U” into the top layer of
shingle; slip in Oatey-style flashing (9”x12”, with an elastomeric
ring); seal exposed vertical edges of flashing with a bead of high quality
caulk (Sika 1A)</span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 color=black face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:12.0pt;color:black'> </span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 color=black face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>Approach #2: Remove shingles down to the
felt; lag stanchion; replace shingles incorporating full-sized
(15”x18”) flashing and seal top of flashing with high-quality
caulk.</span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 color=black face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:12.0pt;color:black'> </span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 color=black face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>Obviously, approach #2 takes longer and
costs more, but does it confer commensurate benefit? If the resulting
stanchion/flashing were exposed to the elements, I would tend to favor the
latter approach; and if we were dealing with new construction the difference in
time and money would not be significant. However, if the stanchion/flashing
lies directly underneath a PV module, it will be shaded from the deleterious
effects of UV sunlight and will not receive any direct rain or snow
accumulation. Under these specific circumstances, I would argue that approach
#1 should be more than adequate and last at least as long as an existing comp
shingle roof. </span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 color=black face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:12.0pt;color:black'> </span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 color=black face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>For those of you who haven’t seen
the Fast-Jack/Oatey approach, you might want to look at <a
href="http://www.prosolar.com/Oateys.htm">http://www.prosolar.com/Oateys.htm</a>.
</span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 color=black face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:12.0pt;color:black'> </span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 color=black face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:12.0pt;color:black'> - Peter</span></font></p>
<div>
<p><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:
Arial;color:navy'>Peter T. Parrish, Ph.D., President<br>
California Solar Engineering, Inc.<br>
820 Cynthia Ave., Los Angeles, CA 90065<br>
Ph 323-258-8883, Mobile 323-839-6108, Fax 323-258-8885<br>
CA Lic. 854779, NABCEP Cert. 031806-26<br>
peter.parrish@calsolareng.com</span></font><font size=2 color=blue face=Arial><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:blue'> </span></font></p>
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