[RE-wrenches] Polaris gone bad?

[cwarfel]

We have used all mentioned here. If you use the crimp and cap method, 
whatdo you do to "waterproof" the connection? Same question with the 
other splice type connectors.Some inspectors will not allow this 
connector to be used in this type of connection if it is made in an 
outside JB.  Thanks for any insight.

Chris Warfel


On 4/7/2017 9:55 AM, August Goers wrote:
>
> Hi All –
>
> I’ve never been a fan of splice block style connectors for rooftop 
> junction or combiner splices. They are expensive, bulky, and 
> questionably rated for wet locations. They are also easy to forget to 
> tighten all the way which will definitely lead to arc failures.
>
> It sounds like Eric has switched over to splice cap crimp connectors. 
> We have too and haven’t looked back. I highly suggest that everyone 
> still using wire nuts or splice blocks to try these out:
>
> http://www.idealind.com/ideal-electrical/us/en/products/wire-termination/60-crimp-connectors/copper-splice-cap-crimp-connectors.aspx
>
> Among other sources, Amazon is a fairly easy way to try them out by 
> getting some splices, insulator caps, and the matching crimp tool.
>
> August
>
> *From:*RE-wrenches [mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org 
> <mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org>] *On Behalf Of 
> *Rebecca Lundberg
> *Sent:* Friday, April 07, 2017 6:36 AM
> *To:* re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org 
> <mailto:re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org>
> *Subject:* Re: [RE-wrenches] Polaris gone bad?
>
> Eric,
>
> I am aware of a similar experience. Knowing the PV will hopefully be 
> in place and without maintenance needs for decades does seem to 
> warrant putting the most robust connector in place. Inverter errors is 
> what first identified the problem. We did question the supplier to see 
> if anyone else was having trouble, thinking perhaps it was a bad batch 
> with some kind of defect? The only thing we could come up with is that 
> perhaps the wrong size screwdriver for securing the wires could cause 
> it. Some brands require an allen wrench (which now makes sense to me) 
> but the brand we had was a straight-head screw. We found that a 
> slightly too big screwdriver worked for the first few turns but then 
> hit the rim inside the insulated connector and wouldn't fully tighten 
> the wire down. IF that were the cause then it was essentially arcing 
> because of a loose connection. However, a pull test on the wire would 
> have discovered a loose connection AND analyzing several of the 
> incidences we saw each seemed to have very tight wire connections, so 
> I'm not convinced this was the problem. Your post is the first I've 
> read of anyone else having this trouble, but I think most installers 
> use wire nuts.
>
> Rebecca Lundberg
>
>     Wrenches,
>
>     We have been having Polaris connectors start to fail on older
>     installs. About 4 or 5 years ago we abandoned wire nuts in favor
>     of the much more pricey, but deemed safer Polaris insulated tap
>     connectors in our combiners. About a year ago we transitioned,
>     about 80% away from Polaris to Buchannon connectors. We have had
>     two recent call-backs on systems downed due to Polaris connectors
>     burning up inside of boxes. (No damage beyond the connector
>     itself). Recently we interfaced with another solar install firm
>     that has gone back to wire nuts due to this same problem. Anyone
>     else seeing this? Wondering if this is an industry-wide issue
>     regarding a Polaris manufacturing defect or if we're still in the
>     realm of isolated flukes.
>
>     Eric
>     SunHarvest
>     (530) 559-5023 <tel:%28530%29%20559-5023>
>
>
>
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-- 
Christopher Warfel, PE
Entech Engineering, Inc.
401-466-8978

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