[RE-wrenches] Flickering LED lights on and Outback Dual 7248VFX system

[frenergy]

Another $.02.... 

        I have 2, FX3524's and 35 KWhrs of HUP's behind them....just cleaned and torqued the terminals/cables.  I run 6-7 brands, sizes, styles of  LEDS and some of them of them flicker while, in my case, the convection oven is running.  It quickly pulses (~10-20 times/second) to maintain a temperature.  Fridge is DC. The less expensive off-brand LEDs flicker, the big name brands don't.

Bill

----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Jerry Shafer 
  To: RE-wrenches 
  Sent: Monday, January 06, 2014 6:21 PM
  Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Flickering LED lights on and Outback Dual 7248VFX system


  I have had this same thing happen with a off grid application using SMA SI's it rooted back to programming one inverter was going to sleep and under some loads the lights would flicker and they were over the dinning room table and suspended from a 16 foot ceiling so it lit up the entire room. I know this has a different inverter  system but I would look close at the programming LED's use such a low load and the drivers take a second to activate. Did you connect a DVOM and watch the volts better yet a scope

  Jerry   




  On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 5:56 PM, Exeltech <exeltech at yahoo.com> wrote:

    There may also be a technical aspect of the dimmer that's adding to the flicker, depending on the type of dimmer(s) in use.

    Some dimmers use a device called a "silicon-controlled rectifier" .. or "SCR".  They allow only half of the sine wave to pass.  Half-wave power wasn't very noticeable when used with incandescent lamps due to the continued "glow" persistence of the filament.  However, LEDs react [essentially] immediately, and the flicker is very apparent.  Final thought .. compressors use the most energy during the compression stroke.  Actual current draw varies with each stroke of the piston.  Check not only the battery connections, but look to see if the loads are on the same circuits as the lamps.  If in fact the inverter AC output voltage IS dropping due to DC-side issues .. and the large AC loads happen to share the same circuit as the lamps .. this would make any flicker that much worse.


    Dan


    --------------------------------------------

    On Mon, 1/6/14, boB at midnitesolar.com <boB at midnitesolar.com> wrote:

     Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Flickering LED lights on and Outback Dual 7248 VFX system

     To: "RE-wrenches" <re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org>
     Date: Monday, January 6, 2014, 6:25 PM



    Only during Big load surges ?

    Could it be current limiting and because LEDs are so fast on and off, you notice the drop in momentary voltage ?

    Any inverter might do that under the right conditions.

    Just a thought.

    boB




    On 1/6/2014 3:45 PM, Dan Fink wrote:
    > I consider LED flicker as very common when a fridge starts up, but NOT while it's running. Both dimmed and not dimmed LEDs. I see flicker more often on systems with smaller (or aging) battery systems of course. The only particular appliance I have found causing constant flicker here and with my clients is a particular brand of laser printer. And also a subwoofer on the stereo (light show!)....a different subwoofer brand solved that problem. Go figure, I have no idea why. Most of my inverters are by Magnum. I have not found much difference with LED brands or dimmer brands.
    > I can see how this could be a problem for your client, Kirpal. None of mine seem to mind a startup flicker, but if its constant that's a big problem. I wish I had an answer for you, but I hope that providing this information helps others. CFLs do not give me the same problem, but of course have their own other problems.
    >
    > Dan Fink,
    > Executive Director;
    > Otherpower
    > Buckville Energy Consulting
    > Buckville Publications LLC
    > NABCEP / IREC accredited Continuing Education Providers
    > 970.672.4342
    >
    >
    >
    >
    > On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 2:48 PM, Jay Peltz <jay at asis.com> wrote:
    >
    >     Dimmers are super specific to light brand/type.  You'll have to do the research
    >
    >     For now swapping to regular switches should work
    >
    >     Jay
    >

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