[RE-wrenches] Fwd: Re: DC arc welder?

Sat Nov 23 16:05:26 PST 2013

I used to use a wire feed welder built off a custom GM "SI" series
alternator, it would put out 160 amps at full tilt boogie. I also used the
same alternator to charge my house batteries off a Honda 9hp engine when I
needed to get in a boost occasionally. Around here in the winter that is far
too often!

As far as welding on industrial batteries, that is how it is done, When I am
working on large packs that's how you install the straps as well as changing
cells or rebuilding posts in the field. 

Do you want to clear a room fast? Fire up a torch and walk over to a 40 cell
bank, the room clears, Like NOW! 

That's fine, you don't want them in there bothering you while you are
working anyway!

As a safety tip, you remove all the cell caps and fill each cell with oxygen
displacing any stray hydrogen. I use oxygen and propane for the actual weld.
It burns cleaner than acetylene and the less trash you get into the molten
lead the better for the connection. 

That is how it is done.

Quick Cable has some good videos on their web site showing the process.

Later,

Bob Ellison

From: re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Ray Walters
Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2013 3:53 PM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Fwd: Re: DC arc welder?

Leave it to Windy to be about a generation ahead of the rest of us on all
things RE once again.  Cheers to Windy :-) 

I still own a Battery Weld 2000 from the 90s, which is a MIG machine that
runs on 24 v dc.   The limit is the battery.  It can blast at over 200 amps,
if you have enough battery to keep the voltage up.  I used to run a 18 v
golf cart battery string, so I wouldn't have to use the on board resistor
bank for lower amp welding.  My DC welds start getting messy about 12" into
the weld, as the battery voltage drops and changes the equation.  
If you're doing a lot of welding, I would use an AC machine and inverter, as
its much better controlled.  Just this week, I tested a Magnum 4024 PAE with
my Lincoln 180, 240 vac MIG machine.  The inverter could handle it, but once
again the batteries were the limit, and my experiment did not have enough
battery behind it to keep the inverter on for very long.  4 Golf cart
batteries would be the minimum.
My local industrial battery company has a carbon rod setup, and they short
the battery to weld the lead connectors to the battery posts.  That's the
preferred method for adding or removing lead connections at the battery
posts, although I'm not sure if OSHA would approve. They open all the
battery caps, so that they don't build up too much hydrogen to
explode....Sketchy?  

R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer, 
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760

On 11/23/2013 11:38 AM, Allan Sindelar wrote:

Forwarding from Windy.

-------- Original Message --------

Sure you can solar weld! Afterall, some of us have welded from battery power
when we preferred NOT to. 

   :0)     <<  that's the HONK of a Solar Bozo (Emeritus)

But seriously, Back in the 1930's to 50's when thousands of farms and
ranches had wind power, 32V was the standard voltage for the 2-3kW systems.
Among the many tools and appliances available, it was common to have a 32V
welder. I used one of them back in the 70's. I was nothing but a box with a
coil in it. The coil wasn't for inductance, just for resistance. It was
steel wire maybe 1/8" thick with taps to give a choice of current. For max.
current, the coil would be completely out of circuit.

The guys I shared the shop with abandoned their buzz box 'cuz the DC was so
smooth.

Towers are still standing on welds I did in the late 70's using 6011 and
7013 rod (if I remember right).

I had a cell failure early on, and my system was 30, not 32V. Worked fine
for years. 

I'm quite sure 24V would work, at least for smallest rods. It certainly
works for MIG welding. Century made a 24V "Portable MIG" to use on 24V
diesel vehicles and farm machines for field repairs. They were made in 70's
and 80's. Nice, 'cuz they are light-weight / no transformer. I used one on
my PV system until I moved recently. I had 3-4V of line loss and it still
worked fine with .030 wire. Again, it has steel coils with taps for control.

If you want MIG, search for a Century Portable MIG. Otherwise, get the
smallest sticks and try 24V. I think I tried it, or heard that it's not
quite enough V. 36V is MORE than you need. If you do 36, use undersized
cable because you'll need resistance anyway!

Searching . 24V MIG is in remote storage with hen's teeth and unobtainium. 

but discussion at

http://forum.ih8mud.com/tools-fabrication/416445-snap-24v-portable-mig.html

confirmed that you can do stick with 24V.

AND somebody suggested this:

http://store.cyberweld.com/twsgspgun10.html

The spool gun looks like the modern way to solve the problem for
professional use. Reviews there say it doesn't have speed control on the
gun. So you need a resistance coil with taps, and you need a speed control.

I hope this helps!

Windy

Windy Dankoff     Solar Bozo Emeritus

         Specialist in solar-electric applications & solar water pumping

                  Education   <>   Industry support    <>    Since 1975

                                       ---------------------------------

                  Founder, retired, Dankoff Solar Products, Inc.

      spin-offs:  Dankoff Solar Pumps  .  Positive Energy  .  Conergy USA

     Co-author, work in progress: The Handbook of Solar Water Pumping

12-minute TV interview:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yt3hKgriSbo
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yt3hKgriSbo&list=TLrXFKMLwzCwuUD5h52WCzKdWRR
-Juk3XA> &list=TLrXFKMLwzCwuUD5h52WCzKdWRR-Juk3XA

                                       ---------------------------------

   windydankoff at mac.com

   Santa Fe, NM          

   home (505) 466-4280

       cell (505) 490-0313

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