[RE-wrenches] Battery Cable REvistied

Tue Nov 30 11:53:49 PST 2010

We use the same inner melt heat shrink, I think. You don't know you have a problem, until you cut that pretty heat shrink off 5 years later, and see what is happening underneath.
The reason we use the vaseline, is that it remains conductive, so we can precoat the connectors before assembling and tightening. (Windy Dankoff taught us that one)
I would see the 3M coating as something to spray on after, but I would be concerned about using it on contact surfaces before.
I agree, heat can be an issue, so we use a high temp grease for applications were the temp might get over 100 deg F.
Maybe a combination might work best:  grease on the contact surfaces before, and 3M spray outside after?

R. Walters
ray at solarray.com
Solar Engineer

On Nov 30, 2010, at 9:47 AM, Warren Lauzon wrote:

> We use the “inner melt” type of heat shrink and have had few problems with it compared to the standard heat shrink. As far as Lead plated lugs, I am not sure I see much advantage to them. Also as far as coatings go, most Vaseline and other standard grease type are way too temperature sensitive, and in hot weather  they just melt away – and they are also great dust/bug/dirt gatherers. 3M and others make a spray on coating that hardens somewhat that we have found to be  much better. From the 3M website “Scotch® Insulating Sprays 1601 and 1602 are electrical-grade, fast-drying enamel sealers and insulators in pressurized cans. These sealers protect surfaces against weather, moisture, corrosion, oil, alkalies and acids. The sprays can afford easy access to hard-to-reach spots. Use Insulating Spray sealers to spray over insulation on wire and cable splices, as a general-purpose sealer, or for touch-up insulation on motor windings and frames. Sprays are available in clear, red or black.”
>  
> The local Home Depot carries it here, also some electrical distributors.
>  
>  
> From: R Ray Walters
> Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2010 9:26 AM
> To: RE-wrenches
> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Battery Cable REvistied
>  
> HI Mark;
>  
> Where do you get the lead plated lugs? We used to special order tin plated lugs from Del City, but they quit carrying them.
> I found that the grease or vaseline coating was the most important issue, though. Tin plated lugs would corrode just like the unplated ones, except they first would lose their plating.
> Lead plated lugs might just be the ticket, except you would still have to keep the corrosion from creeping up under the heat shrink to the copper cable.
> I've had cables with corrosion going up the cable strands for over 6" past the lug. And yes we use heat shrink with the sealing adhesive inside; the corrosion just travels right under it along the surface of the metal. I actually found electrical tape seals better, it just doesn't look near as good, so we still use heat shrink, and coat over the heat shrink with the vaseline (or grease).
>  
> R. Walters
> ray at solarray.com
> Solar Engineer
>  
>  
> 
>  
> On Nov 30, 2010, at 9:09 AM, Mark Frye wrote:
> 
>> I recently worked with a telecom specification that required lead plated copper lugs on the battery side and I have been using the same on my own systems for some time now.
>>  
>> How important is it to use lead plated lugs on the battery side? Is tin plated copper just as good so long as you coat well with grease etc.?
>> 
>> Mark Frye 
>> Berkeley Solar Electric Systems 
>> 303 Redbud Way 
>> Nevada City,  CA 95959 
>> (530) 401-8024 
>> www.berkeleysolar.com 
>>  
>>  
>> From: re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org [mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Glenn Burt
>> Sent: Monday, November 29, 2010 6:03 PM
>> To: 'RE-wrenches'
>> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Battery Cable REvistied
>> 
>> Hi Ray,
>>  
>> I have for my last 2 battery jobs used the Cobra X-Flex in 2/0 size with MTW rating.
>> 
>> At the battery end I have found the Thomas & Betts 54163-TB lugs, available at my local Grainger store to be a good match both mechanically and specification wise (also the correct hole size for M8 terminals in my Concorde AGM’s).
>> On the usual electrical equipment end, I use a Greaves Shoo-Pin PT131FX20 as the appropriate reducer to a THHN stranding #2/0 size (available through our local Graybar store, drop shipped to my office). Because I am using a Sunny Island, of course nothing #2 fits… so I have two Polaris style connectors in the trough below the SI where I switch from the Shoo-Pins to four #1 THHN to go up into the SI batt terminals (two conductors per pole).
>>  
>> In fact, I am wrapping up one of these installs right now.
>>  
>> Don’t know if this helps,
>>  
>> -Glenn
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