[RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing

Peter Parrish peter.parrish at calsolareng.com
Wed May 26 10:10:23 PDT 2010


I would recommend using Sikaflex 1A. It is about as environmentally sound as
a caulking comes. Moisture curing, as well. One other thought (if someone
hasn’t already mentioned it): put this puppy at the bottom of your string so
that the potential difference to ground is a low as possible. 
 
- Peter
 
 

 
  _____  

From: re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Bill Hoffer
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 6:12 PM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing
 
Brian

In my past life working for a module manufacturer, we used Dow Corning PV
804 silicone sealant. It comes in black and white flavors, usually not found
off the shelf at Home Depo.   I believe it is the standard used by most
module manufacturers and the only silicon sealant that meets UL746 Polymeric
materials for electrical applications (Insulating tabs electrically).  We
experimented with many types with similar results, but when UL listing a
module you can only use UL listed components (or you get to pay to perform
those tests on that material too!).  The price of PV 804 reflects the UL
listing.  You would need to ask a chemist at Dow Corning if it has a
different composition than the common off the shelf varieties.  It is great
stuff, sticks to everything (especially opposite colored pants!) and moves
well between two materials that may expand and contract at different rates
with varying temperatures, like a module is often exposed to.

Bill
On Tue, May 25, 2010 at 4:51 PM, Brian Teitelbaum <bteitelbaum at aeesolar.com>
wrote:
I like Blair’s idea, but I’ve always used a silicone sealant that doesn’t
use acetic acid as the curing agent. Dow #739 is one type, but any silicone
sealant that is rated as food-grade, or for aquariums, should work fine. The
739 is a “moisture-cure”, 100% silicone, which uses moisture present in the
air as the curing agent. I was told many years ago that this is the stuff
that is used by module manufacturers to attach and seal module junction
boxes and the exit point in the laminate where the tabs come out. It would
be great if a module rep could confirm this with us.
 
Brian Teitelbaum
AEE Solar
 
 
 
From: re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Blair May
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 3:09 AM
To: 'RE-wrenches'
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing
 
I use a heat gun to remove moisture & smooth out the rip then I've used some
bitchathane w/ foil tape over that.
I am not sure about the possible corrosive effects of the silicone during
curing.
-----Original Message-----
From: re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of bob
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 5:49 AM
To: 'RE-wrenches'
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing
I have a customer who just put a rip in the (tedlar?) on the back of a Solar
World 175 watt panel. For some reason he thought that he needed to move the
leg to a different hole on his RGM mount instead of just collapsing it.
What’s the best way to seal it back up?
There is no other internal damage that is noticeable its about 1.5” long and
½” at the widest end.
My first thought is to use silicone caulk, but I thought I would pick the
collective brain, so to speak.
 
Thanks,
Bob Ellison

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-- 
Bill Hoffer PE
Sunergy Engineering Services PLLC
2504 Columbia Ave NW
East Wenatchee WA 98802-3941
SunEngSer at gmail.com (509)470-7762
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