[RE-wrenches] FW: Metal roof support flashing

Kelly Keilwitz, Whidbey Sun & Wind kelly at whidbeysunwind.com
Tue Jun 16 23:04:01 PDT 2009


Wrenches,

Forwarding the off-list reply to my post, below. (Matt's reply to the List
bounces back to him).
I've received a few replies off-list from other wrenches who are of like
mind on this. 
-Kelly 

------ Forwarded Message
From: <matt at solar-energy-solutions.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2009 09:27:46 -0400 (EDT)
To: Kelly Keilwitz <kelly at whidbeysunwind.com>
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Metal roof support flashing

Kelly,

We have a great relationship with one of Kentucky's largest metal roofers.
 Our market sounds like yours - most roofs are ribbed seams and the
standing seams are always iffy according to S-5 specs.  We use stanchions
for all our work and we used to install the oatey multi-flash over top.
We asked our roofer about this practice and he informed us that we are
simply making new holes that stand just as good a chance as leaking.  For
this reason we have gone to simply using two lag screws per stanchion on a
piece of epdm tape with some appropriate sealant.

That said, this is just advice I have received from a self-proclaimed
expert (albeit one that installs numerous metal roofs).  This was a great
question and I look forward to hearing the response of others.

Regards,

Matt Partymiller
Solar Energy Solutions LLC
(859) 312-7456
matt at solar-energy-solutions.com


> Wrenches,
>
> We install PV & SHW on a lot of flat-pan metal roofs here in the Great
> Northwest. Most of these roofing seams are not amenable to S-5! clips ­
> and
> if they are we can¹t trust how the roof is held down.
>
> We want to install the supports to best roofing practices. The roofers
> that
> we¹ve worked with use rubber boots that fit over vents and holes, which
> seal
> to the roof with goop and are attached by screwing through the ring at the
> base of the boot, through the roofing, into the roof sheathing.
>
> The flashing boot around the post requires 5 to 9 more screw holes,
> depending on the diameter and doesn¹t conform around the standing seams
> very
> well. Additionally, on roofs with no full sheathing deck ­ like with skip
> sheathing, and horizontal perlins - the boot cannot attach to the roof
> very
> securely.
>
> Although this seems necessary for situations where there is an actual
> object
> going through the roof (e.g. conduit, pipe, and vents), I don¹t see how
> flashing this way will be better than simply using posts without the boot
> flashing, or even L-feet, direct to the roof, with an EPDM gasket, with
> one
> or two lag bolts predrilled into the roofing truss or perlin, and filled
> with goop Œtill it squirts out.
>
> What do you do on metal roofs in these situations?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kelly Keilwitz, P.E.
> Whidbey Sun & Wind, LLC
> Renewable Energy Systems
> NABCEP Certified PV Installer
> WA Electrical Administrator #KEILWKM923RB
> 987 Wanamaker Rd.
> Coupeville, WA, 98239
> 360.678.7131
> sunwind at whidbeysunwind.com
> WA Electrical Contractor #WHIDBSW920MS
> WA General Contractor #WHIDBSW946M1
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> List sponsored by Home Power magazine
>
> List Address: RE-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org
>
> Options & settings:
> http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org
>
> List-Archive:
> http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org
>
> List rules & etiquette:
> www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm
>
> Check out participant bios:
> www.members.re-wrenches.org
>


------ End of Forwarded Message





More information about the RE-wrenches mailing list