[RE-wrenches] SS Zip Ties

Tue Dec 16 07:13:51 PST 2008

We have been putting the wires into hi temp split loom (nylon temp rating is
- 40 to 300 degrees) and using the rated ties to hold it all together. It is
not hot in this area and they seem to hold up fine. Ask me in another 10
years or so.
Generally we use 2 sizes of loom. and weave the smaller into the larger.
Never had any questions about it and it does make for a neat install. Not as
fast as SS clips but it gives the creatures another layer to dig through
before the wires are exposed.

Bob

On Tue, Dec 16, 2008 at 9:47 AM, Richard L Ratico <
Richard.L.Ratico at valley.net> wrote:

> Tump,
>
> Interesting. No AHJ on my job in NH. Just trying to comply with the intent
> of
> the code and common sense.
> Next time, with the same AHJ, you might try using plumber's CVPS DWV pipe,
> it's
> not conduit :-)
>
> Dick
>
>
>
> --- You wrote:
> I tried this once only to have the AHJ indicate that that is NOT the
> correct
> method of use for PVC conduit. "You need to have strain relief's on your
> wires if your using conduit". Needless to say; yes sir, removed it & used
> tie straps.  AHJs......
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org
> [mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Richard L
> Ratico
> Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 10:55 PM
> To: re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org
> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS Zip Ties
>
>
> Fellow Wrenches,
>
> For MC cable "management", we recently used 1 1/4" Schedule 40 PVC conduit,
> strapped loosely
> (to allow for expansion/contraction) to the our top rack rail with SS pipe
> clamps.
> The conduit was drilled with a 1 1/4" hole saw every 18" or so to match the
> spacing of the module pigtails.
> The hole edges were softened with a dremel tool. The MC cables dropped into
> the conduit through the drilled holes.
> We also drilled 3/8' holes in the PVC to act as drains. Excess cable was
> folded and tucked into the conduit.
> The layout was planned to allow easy access to each module's cables.
> Grounding was by WEEB washers.
> This approach was much more satisfying and easier to implement than tywraps
> or clips.
> The conduit dropped through the roof deck through an LB in a roof boot
> directly into a metal junction box.
> EMT to the DC disco. The LB was dammed with duct seal.
>
> Best,
> Dick
>
> Dick Ratico
> Solarwind Electric
> Bradford, VT
>
>
>
> You wrote;
>
> Chris,
>
> I'm not saying that UV black wire ties are best. I still think that
> stainless cable clips made by Wiley are probably the best option of all.
> Wire ties, or your solution, should be used when cable clips can't work.
>
> Bill.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org
> [mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Chris
> Worcester
> Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 10:08 AM
> To: 'RE-wrenches'
> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties
>
> Hi all,
> We have slowly evolved into using SS hose clamps with 3/4" double wall 600V
> heat shrink over them to secure our wiring on our roof mount and pole mount
> systems. The sharp edges can turn around and bite you! The addition of heat
> shrink, which we buy in 4' lengths from Del City online along w/ the 10
> packs of SS hose clamps, works great. We want our systems to go 30 years
> and
> plastic zip ties here in the high Sierras just don't last. It is an easy
> upgrade to SS zip ties and heat shrink for us. They will probably install a
> lot quicker.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Chris Worcester
> NABCEP Certified PV Installer
> Phone: 530-582-4503
> Fax: 530-582-4603
> www.solarwindworks.com
> chris at solarwindworks.com
> "Proven Energy Solutions"
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org
> [mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Jeff
> Clearwater, Village Power Design
> Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2008 6:31 PM
> To: RE-wrenches
> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SS zip ties
>
> Hi Bill and all,
>
> I've been searching for an alternative to plastic wire ties for some
> time as I'm not sure they are going to hold up over the system life
> of 20-30+ years and it'll be an ugly site to have all those wires
> drop onto the roof.
>
> But for a flush rooftop array, an assumption to replace broken ones
> with an O&M plan as Bill suggests is prohibitive unless you want to
> pull modules and rewire all over again.  Way too much labor.
>
> At first I was glad to see the SS ties too - but they just don't work
> that well and I too worry about the sharp edges with all the
> contraction and expansion that goes on in an aluminum based racking
> system.
>
> On many commercial jobs we've used our own home made wire loom by
> splitting liquidtight non-metallic on a table saw.  We then use a
> self tapper and washer to screw through the back of the inside of the
> split LT to the array frame and then use one-hole straps to hold the
> wire from coming out of the slot where we want to.  I shared this
> method way back on this list and at
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~clrwater  It's code since it's outdoor
> rated wire anyway.
>
> I sometimes even run the LT home to a LT fitting after stopping the
> split (after providing a drain loop/low spot).  Not exactly covered
> by the code but I see no inherent violation.
>
> I'm glad to see UniRac coming out with a zip bundle that slides into
> their rail slot  but that does only some of the job as there are many
> places we need to attach that are not directly along their rails.
>
> I've told the folks at UniRac, DP&W, ProSolar, AEE etc. that the
> first racking company that comes out with an integrated loom or wire
> handling system will rule.  That was 2 years ago.
>
> Still waiting!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jeff Clearwater
> NorthEast Solar/Village Power Design
> --- end of quote ---
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