Solar well control [RE-wrenches]

Matt Tritt solarone at charter.net
Mon Dec 17 08:31:44 PST 2007


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William,

Clay valves are great, but greatly expensive. A standard tank valve 
works fine with solar pumps since, unlike fixed-speed AC pumps, rapid 
cycling is not an issue to be concerned about, but you might weant to 
use a small pressure tank along with it. Having been in the "regular" 
and solar pump biz since it started back in the late bronze age, I've 
done these systems about avery way you can think of, and have used many 
Clay valves. They aren't worth the money for something like a Sun  Pump, 
but are ideal when working with medium and large water infrastructure.

Matt T

William Miller wrote:

>
> Friends:
>
> By popular demand, I am easing into a new line of solar electric:  DC 
> water pumping.  Realizing I have little training in the fluid and 
> mechanical side of this operation, I have been doing a lot of 
> research.  If anyone can recommend any texts or web sites, that would 
> be appreciated.
>
> I have a particular question and would most appreciate any input:  I 
> have a new client with a Sun Pump direct solar well pump.  It runs 
> well but he wants to automate his pump operation.  The tank is 1/4 
> mile away from the well with no extra conduit for a float switch.  
> There is little elevation gain between the well and the tank.  I 
> understand we can install a ball cock valve at the tank and use a 
> pressure switch at the well to shut the well off.  However, a standard 
> ball cock is problematic in that the valve shuts gradually.  This 
> could cause rapid pump cycling. However, a Clay or JOBE reservoir 
> valve would shut completely and resolve this cycling issue.
>
> Is the information in the paragraph above correct?  Any flaw in the 
> logic?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> William Miller
>
>
>
> -- _________________________________
> William Miller
> Miller Power and Communications
> Voice :805-438-5600     Fax: 805-438-4607
> email: wrmiller at mpandc.com
> http://mpandc.com
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