Battery inter-connect meltdown[RE-wrenches]
Ray Walters
walters at taosnet.com
Mon Oct 15 12:46:29 PDT 2007
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Load Testing could be a lot of extra cost, but we try to test the
completed install. MAximum inverter current for 15 minutes, and check
for warm connectors. I've found loose connections just by hand
checking everything before too.
I've seen similar melt downs that could also be a loose bolt, or even
insufficient mating surface area. Imperfections in the crimp lug and
battery post could have prevented even a tight connection from having
its full capacity. As it gets hot it just gets worse. The melted lead
makes me think the heat source was the bolted connection and not a
connection away.
Another thing we do, is pull test all crimps. 2 guys tug a war
over a 2/0 cable shows problems fast. We've found entire
installations that didn't pass.
Its interesting too that the battery lead acted as a "fuse" of sorts.
The whole bank didn't turn into Chernobyl. Did it melt into the case
and ignite the Hydrogen? because otherwise the molten lead is not a
fire itself, and wouldn't ignite wood unless it was in direct
contact, IMHO.
Ray
On Oct 15, 2007, at 12:35 PM, Jeff Yago wrote:
>
> Here is another reason I like battery rooms and not confined
> battery boxes...
>
> An almost new, off-grid solar-gen-battery system with Outback dual
> inverters and eight L-16's wired in single series at 48 volt,
> located in separate battery room having fire-rated drywall interior
> and ceiling and concrete floor. Room includes an inline inverter
> powered DC exhaust fan. Homeowner only uses this second home on
> weekends. When he arrived he found no power anywhere and
> refrigerator had 4 day old spoiled food. Irate phone call came
> next, since I was just there 3 weeks ago to change out a failed
> power board in one of the two new Outback Inverters.
>
> When I arrived I headed for the battery room where I found one of
> the battery inter-connects had all insulation melted off about 50%
> of its 12" length between 2 batteries, and one end dangling since
> the bolted connection had clearly melted its way through the
> battery post until it sprung free and broke the circuit. Since
> this home was not occupied and no HVAC equipment operating, the
> only load would have been a few "wall-wart" cell phone chargers and
> the refrigerator cycling on and off as needed. Since the inverter
> 175 amp breaker did not trip, and since the 300 amp catastrophic
> fues we always add just before the positive battery cable leaves
> the battery room did not blow, we are fairly sure this battery bank
> was not under any large current draw.
>
> We use 5/16" all stainless steel battery bolts, washers, and nuts,
> and make sure the battery posts are wire brushed clean just before
> assemble using a torque wrench. We also make sure the copper cable
> terminals are directly against the battery post as I am aware
> stainless steel is not a good conductor and several past failures I
> have read about were traced to having a stainless-steel flat washer
> "between" the battery post and the cable.
>
> Best guess since only the one end was fried and only insulation was
> burned off, is the crimping of the copper terminal onto the copper
> inter-connect cable was not properly completed and caused a high
> resistance connection that over-heated when under current draw for
> extended period. Please note we only install UL labeled "factory-
> made" inter-connect cables and not site-made, although we have the
> capability.
>
> Conclucion - Most likely just a failed crimp by someone not paying
> attention, but I am sure glad this was in a room with an 8 foot
> high fire-rated ceiling above and not in a plywood box with the
> wood cover just a few inches above what had to be a nice little
> fire for several minutes!
>
> I think we should request that all pre-made battery cables should
> be load tested for several minutes after assembly to check for
> large temperature rise at the crimps.
>
> Jeff Yago
>
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R. Walters
Solarray.com
NABCEP # 04170442
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