butler building roof details? [RE-wrenches]

[Steve Fain]

Hi Wrenches,
	Please allow me to pipe up here with a few comments for Geoff and
Allan.

It's true that you can get some amazing holding strengths with Tek
screws---make sure you get ones that have a rated pull-out strength so you
have some hard numbers to show the plans checker at the building department.
Also, the bolt holes and slots in UniRac components are larger than the Tek
screw heads, so make sure you have the right combination of good, stout
fender washers so the screw heads don't pop thru.

Standoffs with flashings are best to use in applications like Geoff
described, if the flat pans between the standing seams are wide enough.
Roof jacks can be slipped over the standoffs and glued down over the metal
roofing with an appropriate adhesive, then painted to match the roof---looks
great and lasts a long time.  Next best would be to simply bolt the L-feet
directly to the roof surface (firmly attached to structural members, of
course).  Bitchothane (sp?) squares under the L-feet is a great idea, but
UniRac now has serrations in the L-feet that make the racking stronger, but
might allow water to leak in from the sides.  This makes it more important
than ever to use plenty of appropriate caulking all the way around the base
of the L-foot and over the screw/bolt/lag head.  

Steve Fain
Customer Service/ Tech Support
UniRac, Inc.
1411 Broadway Blvd. NE
Albuquerque, NM  87102
(505) 242-6411  ext. 21
e-mail:  sfain at unirac.com
Web:    www.unirac.com
 
 
 

-----Original Message-----
From: Allan Sindelar [mailto:allan at positiveenergysolar.com] 
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 10:16 PM
To: RE-wrenches at topica.com
Subject: Re: butler building roof details? [RE-wrenches]


Geoff,
I don't know Butler specifically, but steel frame metal roofed buildings are
common here.

We did two 6.8kW systems recently using SolarMount standoffs attached with
#14 Tek screws into the horizontal purlins. The purlins are typically about
5' apart. The real surprise is the Tek screws: in the heavy gauge sheet
metal used for structural members, a single #14 screw has something like
1,400 pounds of pull resistance. This allowed all installation to be from
above.

We also placed a 2"X2" square of bituthene under each L-foot, with a bead of
elastomeric caulk across the top edge and on the screw.

Hope this helps.
Allan at Positive Energy

P.S. I noticed you posted this Friday morning and I got it Sunday morning.
Topica sucks big time. A few weeks ago I posted a request for assistance
here that showed up nine days later.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Geoff Greenfield" <Geoff at Third-Sun.Com>
To: <RE-wrenches at topica.com>
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 6:14 AM
Subject: butler building roof details? [RE-wrenches]


>
> Has anyone figured out the best way to attach solar to a steel pole barn
> ("Butler Building")?. Almost flat roof!  We are considering s-5 clamps but
> these are not the typical standing seem roof pans (more of a hump then a
> seam).  Considering bolt through into the C purlins but working from below
> in this occupied building would be a nightmare and flashing the metal?????
> This thing is so flat I would like to consider ballast but for the
clearance
> issues on the ribs...
>
> For a brighter energy future,
>
> Geoff Greenfield


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