Takagi water heater [RE-wrenches]

Bill Loesch, Saint Louis Solar bill_loesch at compuserve.com
Sat Aug 27 09:36:16 PDT 2005


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>Thanks,

jay

peltz power

PS Where  or who makes a good descaling equipment or solutions?
<

Intech 52 is what I have had very good success with. It is primarily
sulfamic acid. Dilute hydrochloric acid works OK , too. As does vinegar.
The trick is to circulate the solution not just fill up the HX and wait.
The reason the circulation is required is that as the acid does its job, it
becomes weaker at that location. So if you have a large concentration of
scale at some bend or transition or (?) the the uncirculated descaling
fluid becomes weaker exactly where it is most needed and produces only
limited success. The pump need not be anything fancy, some folks have told
me they use a drill pump. I have a very small OASE pump which runs on DC. 
I use a power supply when AC is readily available. A bucket and some cheap
vinyl tubeing which I heat up in very warm water and then force over the
ends of the HX for a tight seal. The Intech  will loose its redish color as
it descales, so once I no longer get a color change I am satisfied that the
descaling was successful.



>But in regards to the scaling issue.  I would think ( I don't live in  
an area with bad problems) that if you do have such a problem then  
you would have softeners etc regardless of if you have a  on demand  
or regular unit.
<

In a perfect world that is probably correct. Other than the water softener
will cost you ca. $500 and probably a like amount for the installation. And
a $1000 Plasma TV would be much more visable than this water softener which
will actually require you to do some work every so often. The biggest
concentration of scale always occurs where the water is heated as the
minerals precipatate easier at the elevated temperatures. In a two foot (or
more) diameter tank water heater, a quarter inch of scale buildup would
produce some very slight loss of volume and some slightly reduced heat
transfer. In the tankless, which most often uses a half inch tube as the
HX, that same quarter inch deposit of scale will have completely blocked
the flow - which is how the unit determines when to turn on. Bottom line -
the hard water is _much_ more critical with a tankless.

>However it does make some sense.   When you figure the cost per  
square foot of a house and the additional cost of venting, mounting  
it outside can make some really good economic sense. You can mount  
them very close to where heat is needed etc.
<
I used to ride the bus to work with Dr. Vern, he would not park his car in
his garage as he thought the real estate was much much too valuable to use
the garage to house his car. I don't  park in my garage as the garage has
become a warehouse. 

Mounting the heater outside would totally eliminate the venting costs of
what is typically very pricy vent materials - Category 3 compatiable sealed
stainless pipe is _not_ cheap. For those in freezing climates, mounting the
heater on an outside wall with proper clearances from the ground and other
building openings will minimize the pricy pipe. Hopefully, near a major use
of hot water.

Enjoy the weekend,

Bill Loesch, Solar 1 - Saint Louis Solar, tel/fax 314 631 1094

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