Mutiple Array Spacing at 38deg N Latitude [RE-wrenches]
Jeff Clearwater
clrwater at earthlink.net
Sun Jan 9 21:39:32 PST 2005
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Hey Jeremy,
Twice row height is okay but not necessarily
great. You really should do the trig so you know
how much shading you are getting and translate
that to energy lost and see how that affects the
economics of your system. For residential
systems it's not a big deal to lose some near
Winter Solstice. When you get into larger arrays
you really want to know exactly where you stand.
You basically are deciding what time in the
morning (or afternoon) on a winter solstice day
do you want to have no shading (or how close to
Winter Solstice you are willing to have total
shading for tighter arrays if you feel it's okay
to lose that much)
The basic formula for row spacing for flat ground
(assuming an true EW row orientation) is:
S=H/Tan(ø)
Where S= Row Spacing
H = Row Height
ø = Minimum Sun Altitude Angle below which you don't want shading
Winter Sun Angle (Altitude)= 90-(Latitude + 23.5º) (at noon)
Summer Sun Angle (Altitude) = 90-(Latitude - 23.5º) (at noon)
(So at 38º latitude you have a winter solstice noon altitude of 28.5º)
So you decide how early or late on winter
solstice you don't want any shading (or if you
don't have the luxury of that much space how many
days each side of solstice you'll allow shading)
- so you might look up your sun angle on 9 am on
winter solstice to have practically zero shading
from the array year round - depends on your
application and on existing (trees or such)
shading)
If you use an angle of 15-20º for ø at your
latitude you'll have very little total energy
lost but you'll get a row spacing more than twice
the height. . You can go for a higher angle like
22-25º for ø if the space needs indicate to.
It's all a matter of how much you want to lose.
Whatever angle you choose you can then look up
what days and times you are going to have shading
in the winter - then figure the energy you are
throwing away and see if it's worth it
economically vs. the available roof space.
That formula is true only for flat and south facing arrays.
For a truly south facing pitched roof you simply
draw it out and add (or subtract depending on how
you reference it) the roof pitch angle to your
trig.
It can get complicated if the array is not on a
truly south facing roof or if you have compound
tilts (like when mounting the array facing south
on a west facing roof pitch)
For azimuths other than 0º with a tilted roof you
have to do 3 dimensional trig to be exact. You
can get pretty close though by solving for the
extremes using regular trig.
If you don't trust your math, then you can
define the shading extremes at your site with an
inclinomter and a siting device sited from the
highest point of your most south row. I always
check my trig by using this method before I bolt
down the second row.
I hope that helps!
Jeff Clearwater
Village Power Design
>
>Wrenches,
>Can someone confirm spacing of one array to another to be object height x 2.
>I know it depends on your latitude. The site it at 38N
>I have studied some pages sent to me by DP&W but I still have a question.
>Is the object height the height from the roof?
>I have figured out that the highest point of the
>modules will be 15". If I use a factor of 2, it
>seems to be quite a distance to the next mount.
>Sorry, I normally do pole mounts and this will
>actually be my first grid connected pv system to
>install here in Colorado.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Jeremy
>All Solar
>CO, USA
>
>
>
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Jeff Clearwater
Village Power Design Associates
Sustainable Energy & Water Solutions for Home & Village
http://www.villagepower.com
gosolar at villagepower.com
530-470-9166
877-SOLARVillage
877-765-2784
425 Nimrod St.
Nevada City, CA 95959
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