DC plugs and outlets [RE-wrenches]

[Kurt Albershardt]

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Wrong Kurt, I know--but I'll throw my $0.02 in for good measure:

The use of linear regulators will turn the unused voltage into heat.  You can improve on this by using a switching regulator like the TI PT-series units:

1A <http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/pt5100.html>
2A <http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/pt78st100.html>

These need capacitors added for stability, somewhat more critical than with the linears (for which they are also specified.)


TI has a range of parts specified for 36-75V input but they are expensive ($45) due to their fully isolated outputs (since most 48V systems are telco oriented and positive ground.)







--On Monday, November 22, 2004 10:55 AM -0700 Allan Sindelar <allan at positiveenergysolar.com> wrote:
>
> Kurt,
> Your $2 24V DC to 9.5V DC in-plug voltage regulator sounds interesting.
> Please say more, including who makes it, where to get it, and for what you
> most commonly use it. Also, have you a line on a similar 48V DC-DC
> converter?
>
> Allan
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kurt Nelson" <sunwise at cheqnet.net>
>
>  I bolt the tab of a small
> 1A voltage regulator (with negative tab) on to the ground/negative
> connection inside the plug and wire the 11-35 V-in of the regulator to
> the 24V+ of the plug and the 9.5V+ output of the regulator to the cord
> going to the 9.5V load.  This all takes place inside the bake-lite plug
> and is very clean.  You can even get a small fuse in there to protect
> the smaller appliance line, but in my tests if you short circuit the
> cord or coaxial power plug at the appliance and there is no fuse, the $2
> voltage regulator fails open and current flow stops.
>









.

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